Cycling the BC Coastal Circle Route

The British Columbia Coastal Circle Route takes in the best of Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast.

Coastal Circle Route scenic drive - even better on 2 wheels!

Cyclists can power through the route in a couple of challenging, knee pumping days....or spend days, even weeks exploring seaside towns, beaches and campsites.  Really, your available time and of course budget will shape your trip.

Getting ready to depart from Horseshoe Bay

We had a little three day getaway and chose to shorten the route and travel from Horseshoe Bay by ferry to Nanaimo and begin the circle back to Horseshoe Bay via Powell River and the Sunshine Coast.  Beginning the circle on the Island and heading north for the start of the ride means that the ocean is always on your right hand side, allowing for maximum ocean viewing and easy access to beaches and ice cream shops!  (32 flavours of Island Farms Ice Cream)

Ocean views inspire riders along the route

When asked for advice, we always suggest that cyclists get off the ferry and immediately pull over to allow for traffic to pass.  However, we never follow our own advice as we are always chomping at the bit to get moving.  Today was no exception so we battled the truck and camper traffic and began the climb from the ferry dock up to the E & N Trail.  This trail is a terrific 8km shared pathway and a sure fire way to avoid heavy traffic as you leave Nanaimo.

E & N Trail in Nanaimo

We cruised along the "old island highway", oceanside route, through the communities of Parksville, Qualicum Beach, Bowser and Fanny Bay enjoying the ocean and mountain views.

Sandy beaches are a highlight at Rathtrevor Beach

ICE stop in Parksville

Near Fanny Bay we were treated to a fantastic and well earned downhill section.  The day had been really hot, with temperatures hitting the 30 degree mark - quite unusual for the coast.  We welcomed the sight of the downhill and began to cruise!  As luck would have it, I hit a staple and flatted out.  I tried to yell for Rob to stop, but he was off like the wind.  Rob was carrying the toolkit, so I reluctantly got off my bike, grumbled away to myself about missing the downhill and why oh why could this not happen on an UP hill and began to walk.  Then it occurred to me, that Rob would probably, eventually, hopefully become worried that I was not with him.  (or maybe he would just enjoy the peace and quiet?)   True to form, Rob noticed I was missing, turned around and cycled back up the hill to meet me.  Marriage intact and touched by the effort it took for him to cycle back up the hill in the heat, we (and by we, I mean Rob) repaired my tire.

My favourite bike mechanic at work

Exhausted, hot and grumpy we decided to rejuvenate with a quick splash and dip in the river at Rosewell Creek Provincial Park.

Shady trails through Rosewell Creek Provincial Park

Entrance way to Rosewell Creek Provincial Park

How do you spell relief?

We ended our day at DHent, a fabulous B and B in Comox.  The hosts are kind and gracious, the food delicious and the beer is always cold! The Comox Valley, encompassing Cumberland, Courtenay and Comox, is one of our favourite places to visit.  The people are terrific and the valley offers everything an outdoor enthusiast could ask for.  From sea kayaking to fishing to hiking to golf and cycling, there is something for everyone.

Courtenay Riverway provides a great escape from city traffic

Entrance to Comox

We spent a day visiting and exploring the Comox area and then were up bright and early to cycle to the ferry for the crossing to Powell River.  Early morning is our favourite times to ride.  Traffic is non-existent, the air is cool and there is a feeling of peacefulness and solitude.  Today was no exception, and as we arrived at the ferry the sun was rising and the moon was setting - a picture perfect start to the day.

Ferry lineup to Powell River

Rising sun welcomes the day at the ferry terminal

Moon sets over the Comox Glacier

There were several cyclists on the road, and I chuckled to myself as I noticed that the enthusiasm and friendliness of the greetings as we passed each other appeared directly related to the hills.  On downward glides, oncoming cyclists would shout hearty hellos and wave with unbridled enthusiasm.  On the uphills, greetings consisted of  slight nods and brief hand gestures.  I wondered to myself if my uphill greeting looked even remotely friendly as I pictured my face scrunched up in agony and despair!

During the Sunshine Coast leg of the trip we were treated to scenic ferry crossings on the Earl's cove ferry and the Langdale ferry.  These crossings are a bit of a mixed blessing for cyclists as you must watch your timing carefully.  Miss a crossing and you can be faced with a long and leg stiffening wait until the next sailing.  Today we were fortunate and managed to make our scheduled crossings.

Last to load, Jane enthusiastically thanks the ferry worker for waiting

Talk on the Saltery Bay - Earls Cove crossing was all about Skookumchuck Narrows.  The narrows, connecting Sechelt and Jervis Inlets are famous for their tidal rapids.  200 billion gallons of water will flow through the narrows on a 3 metre tide.  Just imagine that! With the recent super moon , rumour had it the tidal swings would be at their best.  "Skooks" attracts white water enthusiasts looking to play in the surf...not for beginner paddlers to be sure!  We were really tempted to divert to Skookumchuck, but knew we would not have a hope to make our ferry connections if we took this side trip.  Next time - for sure!

Breathtaking views from the ferry

The north section of the Sunshine Coast route is my favourite.  Traffic is generally light, with the occasional surge after a ferry docks.  The route is up and down, so presents a challenge and keeps it interesting and once again we were treated to spectacular mountain and ocean views.

We enjoyed a lunch break at a turtle crossing by Ruby Lake and were pleased to see direct evidence of a successful conservation initiative.

Environmental stewardship at work - Ruby Lake

At Half Moon Bay, we chose to leave the highway, take a break from traffic and cycle along Redroofs Road through Sargeant Bay Provincial Park.  We rejoined the highway near Sechelt and pointed south to the ferry.  It had been quite a tiring day battling heat and hills and by the time we arrived at Davis Bay we were beat.  We stopped for a quick toe dip in the ocean only to return to find our bikes in a crumpled mess....our trusted steeds seemed to reflect how our bodies felt.

Collapsed bikes...what an omen!

The ride ended just outside Gibsons, a quaint seaside town, known as the gateway to the Sunshine Coast and made famous by the Beachcombers TV show.  Like salt on a wound, as we left Gibsons we were faced with one long, last hard climb before the final thrilling descent to the ferry terminal.  I suppose it is simply an exclamation point on a ride well done!

Relaxing on the home stretch!

Giggle

 Nothing gets a visit to Vancouver Island off to a better start than a Traditional Breakfast and fresh brewed coffee on the ferry!  One of my favourite parts of the breakfast experience is the cafeteria line-up.  Now I know that most grumble and groan at first glimpse of the line, but over the years, I have learned that the line is the place for conversation.  From long haul truck drivers to tourists from abroad, the cast of characters in the cafeteria line is something to enjoy.

This trip we were thrilled to be in line with a group of 8 kayakers.  They were starting the journey to Torquart Bay for a week of paddling in the Broken Islands.  We were green with envy as the Broken Islands is one of our most favourite paddling destinations!  There was one very experienced paddler organizing and leading the group, but most were new to sea kayaking.  I chatted away with one lady, who had actually never been in a kayak.  I must confess, I was a little shocked that her destination of choice for her "maiden voyage" was the Broken Islands.  However, she seemed fit and had great confidence in her trip leader.  As we chatted, it quickly became evident that she was quite nervous about her upcoming adventure.  She took me aside and asked me if we could speak in confidence.  I wasn't really sure what to expect and hoped that I could answer her questions and relieve some of her worries...and then there it was, the most pressing and daunting question of all.....  "What happens if you have to PEE?"

Map and Route Tips

This is a challenging and rewarding cycle route, but for those not interested in two wheel modes of transportation check out these driving directions from Hello BC.  Drive the Coastal Circle Route

Be sure to check your ferry times and distances between ferries....nothing dampens your spirits more than arriving at the ferry terminal to watch the boat sail away without you!  www.bcferries.com

Family Camping at Alice Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia

Like all great adventures, it begins with a small idea that grows!  Our idea was to find something special to do this summer with our nephew's Thomas and Robbie. The opportunity to camp together was something we could not turn down and credit to their parents for being brave enough to set us loose in the outdoors with their boys!

Swimming area at Alice Lake Provincial Park

In true expedition fashion, the weekend began with a team organizational meeting.  I am sure you can relate to the discussions around group gear, food lists, emergency supplies etc.  If you have not included a "kid" in your planning meetings, I would encourage you to do so.  Children remind us all that it should be FUN.  As adults, we tend to fuss and fret over gear and logistics.  Adults quickly default to Maslow's hierarchy of needs as we systematically address our most basic needs first - food (s'mores) water (or wine/beer as the cause may be) and shelter (tent).  It was refreshing and thoroughly entertaining to listen as Thomas quickly summarized his needs and I quote:

• bikes
• baseball gloves 
• swimsuits

Really - what more could you need or want?

Ready for action!

As a team, we created a comprehensive food list, with long discussions around healthy vs. unhealthy food, and the pros and cons of bringing something not on our list.

Healthy do it yourself wraps made it on our list!

With much planning and preparation the departure day arrived and we ventured off.  In true Weiss fashion, we were in the car for less than 20 minutes when the heavens open up and it poured rain.

As with all Weiss vacations....it rained!

Of course based on the weatherman's forecast for a week of sun, we had excitedly thrown all of our gear in the back of the truck and really did not have a rain plan.  After three different road side stops we came up with the tarp burrito.  Reassured that our sleeping bags would stay dry we began the road trip to Alice Lake Provincial Park.

Calm afternoon at Alice Lake Provincial Park

Alice Lake Provincial Park is the perfect location for families looking for an introduction to camping. There are 96 vehicle accessible campsites located in the 396 hectare park.  The sites are set back in the forest away from the lake and are quite private.  The campground features a playground, bike and hiking trails, fishing and two sandy beach swimming areas.  Canoes, kayaks and stand-up paddle boards are available for rent.

Relaxing by the swim area

 As I reflect on the weekend, I wish that more kids and teens had the opportunity to camp.  It was fantastic to observe Robbie and Thomas take ownership of our campsite and come together as a team to hang our tarp, put up the tent, chop firewood, fill up water bottles, make meals etc., etc.

Where does this pole go?

Success!

Master chefs at work

Boil in a bag breaky

It was fun to be "scared" together as we walked and cycled along the trails in bear country.  Watching the boys exploring the campsite, swimming in the lake, riding through the bike park and climbing trees reminded me of how important it is to provide kids with opportunities to explore and discover on their own.  The boys tackled each and every challenge we threw at them.  They were Rock Stars!

Evening dip at the lake

All the monkeys aren't in the zoo

Adventure playground

Creative problem solving....how to dry a sock

We had long conversations around the campfire and in the tent, answering deep questions like, "why does Rob snore, and exactly how many hairs does Rob have on his legs?"  (For those interested the answer is 4,321)  We had s'mores for breakfast dessert and debated why you don't usually get dessert with breakfast.

S'mores....enough said

 It seemed like a silly rule to us....in fact why can't you have breakfast for dinner and dinner for breakfast?  We all managed to turn off our electronics for the weekend and we enjoyed being outside and being together.  I reflected on how nice it is to simply chat....and I learned a lot!

What happens at the the campsite...stays at the campsite.

Giggle of the day:

Naturally, we woke up bright and early (or the BOYS woke up bright and early).  Rob, always an early riser, was already out of the tent and working on getting the first cup of Joe ready.  As Rob worked away outside, we lay in the tent, snuggled up in our sleeping bags and chatted away.  The boys were quite curious about my early camping trips with my mom and dad, and I delighted in sharing my memories with them.  One of my favourite memories was of my dad, always the first out of tent, bustling around the campsite.  He would chop wood, tidy and then with great pomp and circumstance announce that the HOT WATER was ready!  I could never really understand why he would leave the warmth and comfort of the tent to boil water.

Our chat quickly turned into banter, wiggles and giggles and as I tried to keep some semblance of order in the tent, I heard Rob exclaim, "NOW, I know why Grandpa always had hot water ready!"

Map and Route Tips:

Alice Lake Provincial Park is located off Highway 99 just 13km north of Squamish.  Reservations highly recommended!  Alice Lake is very popular with both campers and day- trippers.  Be sure to make a reservation to avoid disappointment.

Kayak Lake Shannon, Washington State

Kayaks loaded, gear packed, coffee brewed, excitement building and then we double checked the marine forecast!  Unfortunately, it was not good.  The weatherman was predicting heavy winds for Howe Sound, so we decided to change our plans and head inland to explore one of the many lakes on our list.

Baker Lake Hydroelectric Project

After much debate, we decided upon Lake Shannon, in the Cascade Mountains of Washington State.   This freshwater lake is a man made reservoir located near Concrete, Washington and bordering the North Cascades National Park.  Public access to the lake is provided by Puget Sound Energy

Boat launch at Shannon Lake...gentle, gravel and free!

The lake is quite beautiful, and on a sunny day (or so we were told), provides an excellent view of Mount Baker.  Although, we were not treated to sun, we did enjoy exploring the shoreline and many coves along the way as we paddled around the lake.  It was incredibly peaceful, as we were the only paddlers on the water and there were only two other motor boats on the entire lake. They were both out fishing for Kokanee...not much luck from what we could tell.

Small streams and run off feed the lake

"Ghostly" looking stumps give the lake a spooky feel

Lunch time - water levels were quite high so there weren't many places to pull out.

Maze of roots

Lake Shannon is part of the Baker River Hydroelectric project.  Evidence of logging and of course the area being dammed is everywhere, yet Mother Nature bravely fights to take back control.  The abandoned stumps have become nursery trees, and the Osprey are returning to nest in nest structures that have been established along the shorelines.

Man made nest structures put in place for Osprey nesting sites

We were fortunate to observe a pair of Osprey in their nest or "nest structure".  We tried to stay far enough away as to not disturb them, and were lucky enough to be treated later in the day to quite an air show.

Osprey soar above

The day came to an end far too quickly and before we knew it the time had come to head back to the boat launch.  Shannon Lake proved to be an easy, relaxing, rejuvenating paddle.....highly recommended day trip!

Giggle of the Day:

Birdsview Brewing Company 

...can you guess where we stopped?


Map and Route Tips:

The access road to the boat launch is a primitive, gravel single lane road.  The road is in good condition, but you must drive carefully.

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