Paddle Ross Lake - the North Cascades are Calling!

June in the Pacific Northwest can often be dull and rainy or at best a mixed bag of tricks, so when we saw the weather forecast for a weekend heat wave we knew we had to jump at the chance to paddle.  We decided to look for a new lake to explore and with the help of Google we came across Ross Lake in the North Cascades.

Jagged peaks of the North Cascades

There are 19 boat access back country campgrounds along Ross Lake.  Can you imagine? We felt like kids in a candy store.  Although they are called back country sites, they are well maintained and fully equipped with pit toilets, fire rings, picnic tables and bear caches.  The outhouses were even stocked with toilet paper.  Talk about luxury travel!  And just when you think it can't get any better...the campsites are FREE.  Visitors are simply asked to register and pick up a back country permit before heading into the park.

The only road access to Ross Lake is via Canada.  Leaving Hope you follow the Silver-Skagit road, a gravel access road, and wind your way along the Skagit River towards the Hozomeen Ranger Station.  The road is an old gravel, logging road but in good condition.  After a few km you arrive without any pomp or circumstance at the border to the US of A. 

Where do you scan your Nexus card?

A small A frame cabin serves as the Ranger Station and visitors are required to check in and pick up back country camping permits before entering the recreation area.  We had the pleasure of meeting Park Ranger Jeff.  What a great guy!  Clearly he loved his job and was thrilled to share his considerable knowledge of the park with us.  You can't beat local knowledge, so of course we asked for his recommendation on a campsite.  Although the campsites are all wonderful, he suggested the Lodgepole site...and we were not disappointed. 

Hozomeen Ranger Station - Jeff's Office

We did laugh, as when describing the Lodgepole campsite he said there were a stand of Lodgepole pine trees that looked much different than the rest of the trees.  He told us there was absolutely no way we could miss the campsite.  Famous last words?  After paddling 17km along the heavily treed shoreline we came to the conclusion that for a Forestry Major and Park Ranger, the trees may look distinctive, but for us city folk, it ain't quite as clear.

Lodgepole 

We were in shock and awe for the entire paddle!  We only saw one other canoe and 2 power boats on the entire lake.  The campsites were deserted and we found ourselves alone in paradise!  The lake is spectacular...clear water, majestic forests and views of snow-capped mountains and glaciers.  The National Park Service website claims that the area features over 300 glaciers and countless snowfields, and is  is one of the snowiest places on earth and the most heavily glaciated area in the United States outside of Alaska.  

The Glacier beckons

Come July, this lake is known to be a fisherman's paradise.  We saw fish by the thousands, or maybe millions, swimming along under our boats as we paddled.  Not quite the size fisherman are seeking, but we enjoyed watching them dart in and out of the rocks.

Underwater shot - fish by the millions

The final push to the campsite became quite challenging, as true to form the afternoon winds picked up and we found ourselves in a bit of battle against Mother Nature.  We eventually found the Lodgepole site and enjoyed a stunning sunset and star filled evening.

Rob stores the food in the bear cache

Lake front view lot

Morning visitor

We woke with the sun and were greeted by the deer, who were out for an early morning nibble.  Conditions looked perfect, so we crawled out of the tent, enjoyed a lake front breakfast and jumped in our kayaks.  Once again we were treated to calm waters...like glass!  We decided to cross to the western edge of the lake and begin our paddle back.  We were not disappointed as we were treated to a series of waterfalls, each one more majestic than the last.

Just one of many waterfalls

It was a sensory experience as we neared the falls.  We were greeted by the sound of the cascading water.  As we drew closer, the temperature dropped and we were soaked by the mist coming off the falls.  It was a welcome relief to the heat of the day and a sight that took our breath away.

Time for a swim!

We ended our trip with a swim in the lake and a promise to return....after all there are still 18 campsites waiting for us.

Giggle of the day:

We rounded the point and began to approach the Lighting Creek campsite when we noticed a full moon rising...and yes - it was broad daylight.  Another camper, also enjoying the solitude of the lake, took the opportunity to skinny dip.  We happened upon him in all his glory.  What could he do but smile and give us a wave.  We waved back!  As we stated earlier, the views in this Recreation Area are second to none.

Map and route tips:

Ross Lake is a reservoir with unpredictable water levels.  Winds can be strong, so it is best to get an early start when the winds are usually calmer.

Park Map

The eastern shoreline is better suited for inexperienced paddlers, as there are numerous take out points should the winds pick up and you find yourself in need of a rest.

Don't have a boat...but would still like to experience camping in the back country at Ross Lake?  The Ross Lake resort offers a water taxi drop off and pick up from any of the trail heads on the lake.

Getting There from Hope . .



#pnw #kayak #canoe #northcascades #rosslake #discoveroutdoors #unplugandplay #neckykayak

Harrison River by Kayak - 2014 Update - Harrison Hot Springs to Kilby Provincial Park.

Kayaking the Harrison River is one of our favourite fall trips, and although we usually strive to seek out new routes and explore new areas, this is one paddle that always brings us back!

We last visited Harrison River in October 2013.  This fall we found ourselves back on the river in search of spawning salmon and feasting Eagles.  In the past, we have launched and returned to the beach at Harrison Hot Springs.  This year, we decided to organize a car shuttle and run the river from Harrison Hot Springs to Kilby Provincial Park.  We were hopeful this would give us more opportunity to observe the eagles and salmon and also help us avoid paddling upstream!

Young and Old alike get ready to paddle the river

It was a really busy day on the river!  The salmon run and return of the Eagles attracts tourists, paddlers, and fishers alike.  As we crossed the lake we caught up to a big group of families in tandem canoes.  I was super excited to see so many kids on the water.  They were members of local canoe clubs and were also planning to paddle down to Kilby.

Marina at Harrison Hot Springs

We bid farewell to the canoes and set off downstream.  Conditions were great - slight breeze and sunshine.  The river seemed to be running faster than usual for this time of year and the water was quite high due to the recent heavy rainfall.

Even sailboats were on the river

As we approached Chehalis Flats activity definitely increased.  The salmon were jumping all around us.  It was mesmerizing to watch, so much so that I had neglected to take my eyes off the water.  Finally, when I took a moment to look up I was approaching two trees and there were at least twelve eagles perched in the branches.  I was careful to keep my distance as to not disturb them.  They seemed very content to just watch me drift by.

Eagles observe from their perch

Underwater shot

Hand-fishing on the Harrison

The human activity on the river is definitely a concern, as the Chehalis Flats are an important area for both the spawning salmon and the Eagles.  A group of dedicated and passionate citizens are working hard on establishing the Chehalis Flats Bald Eagle and Salmon Preserve and sharing information regarding etiquette for kayakers, boaters and sightseeing in this area.  As they so well state, "between the increased number of fisherman working the river, the phenomenal subdivision expansion by people who also love this river and its offerings, and the annually increasing numbers of kayakers, birders and now photographers, the collective impact demands that we need to develop some etiquette, some understanding how we can all live together most harmoniously by incorporating some seasonal rules, to reduce human impact, so we do not “love this wonderful place to death!”

Notice the splash from the salmon jumping - fishers line the river

Boat traffic is heavy....and some aren't too concerned about their wake

Daily tours add to the traffic on the river

Voyageur canoe heading to Kilby

Giggle of the Day:

Recently we stumbled upon a blog written by Dave Cornthwaite, an adventurer who in 2005 decided to quit his life as a "couch potato" and embark on an adventure.  Since making this life changing decision, Dave has tackled some amazing trips.  However, what we find most inspiring about Dave is not his adventures (although they are incredible) but his is personal philosophy.  It is simple.  Dave encourages people to make life memorable - SAY YES MORE!

Most of the people we meet when cycling, hiking or paddling seem to embrace the Say Yes More philosophy.  I am not sure if Say Yes people are attracted to outdoor activity or if outdoor activity breeds the Say Yes spirit, but none the less, today "Say Yes" gave us our giggle.

We were really struggling to find a way to shuttle our vehicle in order to allow us to run the river.  We didn't want to drive two cars all the way to Harrison, so we decided to visit a few online forums and pose a couple of questions about running shuttle.  In true forum form (that's a tongue twister), a complete stranger connected us with a fellow at Kilby Bed & Breakfast who offered a shuttle service.  We arranged to meet Darcy, who owns the B and B and off we went.  We asked Darcy if he would mind driving in our car with us to the start point and then driving our car back to the take out point.  Darcy was incredibly flexible and accommodating. This was a perfect plan for us as it saved us from having to take two vehicles to Harrison Hot Springs.

As we were preparing to launch, long after our new found friend, Darcy had departed with our vehicle, we met two couples who were staying at the Harrison Hot Springs hotel for the weekend.  They asked about our trip and were puzzled about the logistics of the shuttle.  We told them about Darcy and then we were taken back by their questions - in fact questions we honestly didn't even think of asking:

• did he have a license? 
• did he even know how to drive?
• was Darcy who he said he was or had we actually given our van keys to a "stranger" who now knew we would be out of our house for a full day?

....their questions went on and on, and their parting words were, "looks like you have lots to worry about as you paddle down the river." As we set off across the lake it hit me.  They really didn't understand the Say Yes More philosophy.

Now, for the record, Darcy, the owner of Kilby Bed and Breakfast is a fantastic guy and is a licensed and insured driver. We would highly recommend anyone visiting the area looking for kayak rentals, shuttle service and a great place to stay to check him out.  The giggle really came from the contrast in the two points of view.  It demonstrated to me that by saying YES, we met a fantastic guy, learned a lot about a great local Bed and Breakfast, learned more about the surrounding area, enjoyed a fabulous day on the river and giggled.  Would that have happened if we had said NO?  I guess we would be paddling upstream against the wind.......

Busy day at the take out point - Kilby Provincial Park

 Map and Route tips:

Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival

Kilby Bed and Breakfast

Kayak Cypress Island - Launch from Anacortes

A Weekend of Misinformation and Mistakes

We ALWAYS advocate for and trust in local information and 99% of the time local knowledge serves us well.  This weekend, however, was a comedy of errors.  The forecast for the weekend was amazing and we simply could not miss the opportunity to head back to the San Juan Islands.  We only had a couple of days so we made the decision to launch from Anacortes and paddle to Cypress Island for the weekend.

We excitedly loaded up our gear, made our customary food run at Freddy Meyers and drove to Washington Park on the west end of Fidalgo Island.  We were absolutely thrilled to be heading out for another weekend in the Islands.

Boat Launch area - Washington Park

As we were loading our kayaks, we began chatting with another paddler on the beach.  He was paddling solo over to James Island for the weekend.  He seemed very knowledgeable about the area and we eagerly asked for his advice.....and then it began!  He told us that the campsites on Cypress closed on Labour Day weekend.  It had not even crossed our minds that the campsite would be closed.  The sun was shining brilliantly and the forecast was for temperatures in the high 20's.  I must confess we didn't quite believe him, but we decided worst case, that if we were careful to plan our route with the tides we could enjoy a nice day trip to Cypress.

We bid farewell and with gear loaded and chart in hands we looked out over the water to plan our crossing to the Island....and then we made our second fatal mistake.  There was a local fisherman loading up so we decided to ask him if he knew about the campsite closures and also if he could recommend the safest area to cross.  Excited to help, he pointed us in the direction of Guemes Island and recommended that we paddle to Strawberry Island to spend the night camping there.  Unfortunately for us he was not pointing at Guemes Island!

Mount Baker provides a scenic backdrop for the crossing

Have you ever watched the television show "The Amazing Race?"  During the show, contestants solve clues and perform tasks in a race around the world.  I am always amazed how the contestants often seem to get caught up in the adrenaline of the race and forget to think.  I must confess, that is exactly what we did.  So excited to have this new camping option, we blindly took the fisherman's advice, jumped in our kayaks and began paddling off in the direction he had recommended - without even double checking our charts.

Under water photo of Jelly 

Cormorants rest on exposed rock

As we neared what we thought was Guemes Island we were both commenting on how things just didn't seem right.  The chart and compass readings were not making sense.  We both know better, and I am embarrassed to say our thinking was limited by our blind faith in local advice.  Finally, Rob took a moment to think creatively and tentatively made the suggestion that we had indeed paddled to Cypress Island all along.

Black Oyster catchers point us in the right direction.  Love the bright bills and bright eyes.

To make a long story short, we pulled up on Strawberry Island and called it a day.  The tidal current was really strong around the island and we were both shaken up by our rookie navigational mistakes. Once again we were humbled by how easy it is to get in to trouble so quickly when exploring the outdoors.  We assure you that we will be much more thorough when planning our next route.  We were also reminded to trust in the compass and the map.

Video of the tidal current - Strawberry Island

Survey marker confirms our location

Rob checking out the tidal currents

Kayak landing site on Strawberry Island

We enjoyed a wonderful evening on our private island, complete with a porpoise show and amazing sunset.  The crooked leaning trunks of the Arbutus trees gave the island a unique feel.

Thin reddish brown bark of the Arbutus trees

The next morning we were up early and had fabulous sunshine and flat water as we explored Cypress and Guemes Islands....with time spent properly charting our route!

Sun sets over the kelp bed

5 star accommodation with a view

Perfect morning conditions

In one last ironic twist, when we arrived back at Washington Park we met a group of four paddlers returning from Lopez Island.  We shared our story....only to be told that Strawberry Island has been closed to camping for the last four years.  A fitting end to a weekend of misinformation!

Waiting for the ferry to depart before paddling on

Giggle of the Day:


Most of our adventures begin with an early morning pit stop at Tim Horton's, our favourite coffee shop.  On this trip we were responsible for absolute gridlock in the drive through lane.  Rob, still groggy from the early start, ordered a large black coffee with cream and sugar.  The staff simply could not understand if he wanted black coffee or coffee with cream and sugar.  As with most misunderstandings and language issues, Rob fell in to the trap of repeating his order over and over, getting LOUDER with each attempt.

One Black One Black with Cream and Sugar #timhortons

Map and Route Tips:

Be sure to check your Tide Charts, Marine Forecast and ferry schedules.  There is heavy boat traffic in the Rosario Strait and the Guemes Channel can be very busy with ferry and pleasure boat traffic.

Overnight parking (small fee) is available at both the Anacortes Marina and at Washington Park.


Washington State Ferries

Marine Chart

Tides and Currents

Marine Forecast

Cypress Island Trail Map

Discover Pass

#kayak #nature #getoutside #discoveroutdoors

Kayak San Juan Islands - Sucia and Matia Island State Parks

Looking for some of the best paddling in the Pacific Northwest?  You really need to look no further than the San Juan Islands.  The Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission manages more than 40 marine parks in the state.  For our weekend getaway we visited Sucia Island State Park and Matia Island State Park and the paddling could not have been better.

Approaching Sucia Island State Park

We planned to launch our kayaks from Orcas Island, so that meant an early start in order to catch the ferry from Anacortes to Orcas.  Of course, no paddle in Washington State is complete without a quick stop at Freddy Meyer's to stock up on supplies...especially Tillamook cheese!

We managed to arrive at the Anacortes ferry terminal at the same time as four huge busloads of kids departing for Camp Orkila.  We chuckled as we watched them line up for check-in and go through the degrading, yet all too necessary, head lice check.  Despite this embarrassing start to their day, by the time the gang loaded on to the ferry they were excited and raring to go!  We made our way to the area where the campers were congregated...we just couldn't miss that kind of chaotic fun!  A huge guy, with a booming voice welcomed the little campers to the ferry and then reviewed the rules of the boat:

Rule Number One:  No running
Rule Number Two:  No running

Can you guess what rule number three was?  Of course, as with all groups of children there is always one spirited little monkey who needs to push the envelope.  We burst out laughing as the "one" bravely asked, "what about hopping, can we hop?"

US Coast Guard patrols the waters

Our ferry made a quick stop at Shaw Island and then docked at Orcas Island.  We disembarked and drove to Eastsound, our designated launch site.  Orcas Island is 57 square miles of gorgeous.  We drove through forest, past farm lands and artist studios and on our return trip spent some time exploring Moran State Park.

Moran State Park

Upon arriving at Eastsound, we attempted to find parking near the beach.  Being a busy, summer weekend parking at the beach was limited.  We stumbled upon Brandt's Landing Marina and had the privilege of meeting Mr. Brandt himself.  We chatted away and learned much about the local area and his plans for a marina and airport expansion.  We just can't stress enough how valuable local knowledge is! After negotiating a price for parking our car and launching our kayaks, he recommended a campsite on Sucia Island.

Loading up at Brandt's Landing

As we set off for Sucia, my nerves set in.  Despite paddling for many, many years (I won't tell you how many), open water crossings still make me very, very nervous.  Although we practice self-rescue and assisted rescue and are well equipped, I am always worried that I might not have the strength to help Rob should he dump.  I have full confidence that he could rescue me...but....could I help him if we were in trouble?  Rob is always patient with me, and in fact, reassures me that a healthy fear of the open water is good.  He always points out that we make educated decisions about the wind and weather conditions and there is never anything wrong with deciding not to go.  Mother Nature always gets the last word!

Open water crossing between Matia and Orcas

I managed to get my nerves under control and as we neared Sucia we could see several Harbor Porpoises in the distance.  The porpoise welcome and sight of the Sucia shoreline buoyed my spirits.  We spent the day exploring the Sucia shoreline.  It was fantastic....coves, crevices, sandstone cliffs!

Sandstone Cliffs

The island is very popular with boaters and in the late afternoon and early evening the sheltered coves fill with sail boats and power boats of every shape and size imaginable.

Boaters drop anchor for the night - Sucia Island

We found the perfect campsite on the beach and settled in for the night.

Happy Hour - Sucia Island

As we were enjoying our evening glass of wine we met an old veteran strolling along the beach.  We visited with him, and were fascinated by his story.  He has been living on his sailboat since 1979!  We politely asked how long he would be staying on Sucia and he answered OCTOBER!  He delighted us with stories of his travels and the islands and we watched enthralled as he made his way back to his sailboat.  He had paddled to the island in a little kayak which he had left on some driftwood while he was out on his walk.  We were going to offer help, but figured if he had been doing this since 1979 he likely had a system and we selfishly wanted to see how he managed.  It was ingenious.  He used two pieces of a pool noodle to create rollers for his kayak and simply rolled the boat to the water.  He then turned his kayak sideways, rolled up his sleeves and stepped in to the boat, without even getting his baby toe wet.  It was perfection!  As we watched the sun set, we tried to imagine what his life has been like.....the old man and the sea.

The crafty veteran paddles back to his sailboat

Sunset from Sucia Island

We had a great sleep and woke up to another warm, dry day.  In all honesty one of my favourite kayaking moments is rolling out of the tent in the morning and savouring my first cup of coffee on the beach.  We sat in silence staring out at the ocean as we contemplated the new day ahead.  Conditions were once again perfect and we became paralyzed with indecision.

Morning coffee brews

• Should we leave our camp set up and spend more time exploring Sucia?
• Should be pack up and move to a different cove?
• Should be pack up and paddle back to explore Orcas?

We couldn't decide so we did the only prudent thing - we decided to decide later!  

Time to pack and depart Sucia Island

We loaded up our boats and began paddling with no clear destination in mind.  As we neared Fossil Bay, we met Paula and Mark, two kayakers from Bellingham.  We floated together for quite a while sharing stories of past paddles.  They had just come from Matia Island and highly recommended that we head there.  Relieved to have the decision made for us we checked the charts and currents and pointed for Matia.

We were so thankful that once again we had trusted local knowledge.  Matia was incredible!  It is a 145 acre marine park and federal wildlife refuge.  The nature viewing was fantastic...birds, seals, porpoises, eagles, crabs, mussels...the list goes on and on.  As we explored the island, we paddled by numerous kelp beds.  The kelp beds always make me think of the Day of the Triffids, a novel by Wyndham.  In the novel, a monstrous species of plant dominates the world.  Although, definitely not monstrous, the kelp do have a science fiction look to them.

Underwater shot of the Kelp bed

After a long afternoon of exploration, we set up camp and found ourselves alone on the island. 

Matia Island marine campsite

A couple of boats were moored in the cove, but we were the only folk camping on dry land.  As we watched, yet another spectacular sunset, we began to plan for a return trip to the San Juans.

Sunset - Matia Island State Park

Giggle:

As we leisurely paddled up to the beach in search of a campsite on Sucia Island we were greeted by Jarrod, an active, happy, 4 year old who was out boating with his mom and dad.  Jarrod excitedly rushed to our kayaks and quickly got to work.  He helped us pull up our boats, unload and spent considerable time testing our bilge pumps.  With Jarrod's help, we found a perfect campsite and set up for the night.

Jarrod helps us unload our dry bags

We spent the afternoon on the beach with Jarrod and his Dad, both die hard Seahawk's fans.  In fact, I think Jarrod's dad is the 12th man.  He relived almost every single play of last years' Superbowl and gave us a thorough run through of this year's team...injuries, salary negotiations, secret plays, depth charts, etc. etc.  I suspect his blood is blue and green!

He also shared stories of the Islands with us, as he has been visiting the San Juan's since he was a little boy.  His grandpa had given him lots of advice and marine tips:

Underwater Jelly pic

• Re: Jellyfish...if they are clear you can go near, if they are red you might be dead
• Re: Oysters..only eat them in the months that have the letter R in them

...the stories and advice went on and on and we welcomed them!

Later that evening, long after Jarrod and his family had left, we strolled along the beach only to discover a huge GO HAWKS and 12th MAN carved into the sand!  We are quite confident that Jarrod and Dad leave this mark no matter where they go!

Map and Route Tips:



Brandts Landing Orcas Island

Washington State Ferries

Marine Chart

Tides and Currents

Marine Forecast

Water Trail Campsites - Fees apply  Camping Rates for Marine Campsites - Washington State Parks

Water Taxi  For those not interested in the crossing from Orcas, you can arrange to water taxi over to Sucia.


#kayak #nature #sanjuanislands #birding #sucia #matia #orcas