A Working River - Cycle along the Fraser River

To call the Mighty Fraser a working river is an understatement.  The Fraser is one of the longest rivers in British Columbia flowing over 1,375 km from it's source near Mt. Robson to the Pacific Ocean. It is rich in history and has played a huge part in the development of B.C.'s settlement, transportation and economy.

Fraser River

This bike route, beginning in Richmond, provides up close and personal views of the river in action.  The entire ride is one of contrasts: road riding and dyke trails, light and heavy industry, parkland, scenic views, and residential development all somehow existing along a few square kilometres of space.

We began the ride near the Bridgeport sky train station and River Rock Casino in Richmond, BC.  (a potential pit stop on the way home?)  Within minutes we were cycling along River Road past the site of the Richmond Night Market,  This summer market, an annual tradition, features over 250 merchandise booths and over 80 food vendors.  An event not to be missed.

Bike path leaving Richmond

After passing the market, we quickly found our way off the road and onto a dyke trail - much better views of the river and of course, traffic free.

Heavy industry along the river banks

One of the highlights of the trip was the short section through the lumber mill.  Massive cranes and trucks lined both sides of the trail and at one point we were diverted through our very own bike tunnel!  The equipment was enormous, and we felt quite small and vulnerable on our bikes as we cruised by.

A bike tunnel!

We continued on and within minutes came across No. 7 Road Pier Park, complete with picnic tables and washrooms.  The old CN Rail loading pier is now a fantastic lookout and fishing spot.  It seemed a little surreal to stumble across this little oasis after just leaving the lumber mill and heavy truck traffic along River Road.

No 7 Road Pier Park

East of the park the route gets a little more intense as the ride takes you from the serenity of the park to the hustle and bustle of the Queensborough bridge  (complete with a panoramic view of the Insurance Corporation of British Columbia's salvage yard.)  Just as you are feeling that the ride isn't quite the quiet, scenic weekend getaway you were looking for the route connects to the BC Parkway Trail and cyclists are offered an escape from the heavy city traffic.

Burnaby Fraser Foreshore Park

We followed the north shore of the river for the return leg, and thoroughly enjoyed the route through the Burnaby Fraser Foreshore Park.  As we exited the park, we stopped at a viewpoint and watched a tug boat in action.  It was something to see the Boom Man hop out of the tug and scamper his way across the logs.  We were fascinated by his speed, balance and agility - a true athlete in action.  We were finding the roads a little slippery.  I can not imagine what the logs must have been like!  It was yet another contrast.  I could imagine the lumberjacks of yesteryear taking a moment out of their day for a good old fashioned log rolling competition.  I suggested that Rob might issue a challenge, but my suggestion appeared to fall on deaf ears.

Tugboat and Boom Man at work

We completed our ride by crossing the Fraser on the Canada Line bike/pedestrian path, a wonderful connector from Vancouver to Richmond.  As I rode across the bridge, the Skytrain rumbling on the tracks above me, I wondered what the early explorers, fur traders and ancestors of today's First Nations communities would think of a $10 million dollar bridge connecting a cycling/pedestrian network!

Canada Line bridge across the river

Giggle of the Day:

As we were packing up our bikes, we received an excited call from one of our gang.  Could we meet in East Vancouver to look at a truck he was thinking of purchasing?  Now, how can you turn down an invitation like that?  We drove to the meeting location and watched our boy close the deal!  Now here is the giggle.  Through a friend, of a friend, of a friend our family is now attached to a 1989 NUCK TRUCK FOR A BUCK.  Yes - it is true, Adam purchased a hand -painted Vancouver Canuck's truck for a dollar.  Being a student, he is short on funds to insure the vehicle, so the final laugh is on us, as the NUCK TRUCK is now parked proudly on our driveway until the summer guide season begins and the paycheques start to flow!

Nuck Truck

Map and Route Tips:

Cycling the BC Coastal Circle Route

The British Columbia Coastal Circle Route takes in the best of Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast.

Coastal Circle Route scenic drive - even better on 2 wheels!

Cyclists can power through the route in a couple of challenging, knee pumping days....or spend days, even weeks exploring seaside towns, beaches and campsites.  Really, your available time and of course budget will shape your trip.

Getting ready to depart from Horseshoe Bay

We had a little three day getaway and chose to shorten the route and travel from Horseshoe Bay by ferry to Nanaimo and begin the circle back to Horseshoe Bay via Powell River and the Sunshine Coast.  Beginning the circle on the Island and heading north for the start of the ride means that the ocean is always on your right hand side, allowing for maximum ocean viewing and easy access to beaches and ice cream shops!  (32 flavours of Island Farms Ice Cream)

Ocean views inspire riders along the route

When asked for advice, we always suggest that cyclists get off the ferry and immediately pull over to allow for traffic to pass.  However, we never follow our own advice as we are always chomping at the bit to get moving.  Today was no exception so we battled the truck and camper traffic and began the climb from the ferry dock up to the E & N Trail.  This trail is a terrific 8km shared pathway and a sure fire way to avoid heavy traffic as you leave Nanaimo.

E & N Trail in Nanaimo

We cruised along the "old island highway", oceanside route, through the communities of Parksville, Qualicum Beach, Bowser and Fanny Bay enjoying the ocean and mountain views.

Sandy beaches are a highlight at Rathtrevor Beach

ICE stop in Parksville

Near Fanny Bay we were treated to a fantastic and well earned downhill section.  The day had been really hot, with temperatures hitting the 30 degree mark - quite unusual for the coast.  We welcomed the sight of the downhill and began to cruise!  As luck would have it, I hit a staple and flatted out.  I tried to yell for Rob to stop, but he was off like the wind.  Rob was carrying the toolkit, so I reluctantly got off my bike, grumbled away to myself about missing the downhill and why oh why could this not happen on an UP hill and began to walk.  Then it occurred to me, that Rob would probably, eventually, hopefully become worried that I was not with him.  (or maybe he would just enjoy the peace and quiet?)   True to form, Rob noticed I was missing, turned around and cycled back up the hill to meet me.  Marriage intact and touched by the effort it took for him to cycle back up the hill in the heat, we (and by we, I mean Rob) repaired my tire.

My favourite bike mechanic at work

Exhausted, hot and grumpy we decided to rejuvenate with a quick splash and dip in the river at Rosewell Creek Provincial Park.

Shady trails through Rosewell Creek Provincial Park

Entrance way to Rosewell Creek Provincial Park

How do you spell relief?

We ended our day at DHent, a fabulous B and B in Comox.  The hosts are kind and gracious, the food delicious and the beer is always cold! The Comox Valley, encompassing Cumberland, Courtenay and Comox, is one of our favourite places to visit.  The people are terrific and the valley offers everything an outdoor enthusiast could ask for.  From sea kayaking to fishing to hiking to golf and cycling, there is something for everyone.

Courtenay Riverway provides a great escape from city traffic

Entrance to Comox

We spent a day visiting and exploring the Comox area and then were up bright and early to cycle to the ferry for the crossing to Powell River.  Early morning is our favourite times to ride.  Traffic is non-existent, the air is cool and there is a feeling of peacefulness and solitude.  Today was no exception, and as we arrived at the ferry the sun was rising and the moon was setting - a picture perfect start to the day.

Ferry lineup to Powell River

Rising sun welcomes the day at the ferry terminal

Moon sets over the Comox Glacier

There were several cyclists on the road, and I chuckled to myself as I noticed that the enthusiasm and friendliness of the greetings as we passed each other appeared directly related to the hills.  On downward glides, oncoming cyclists would shout hearty hellos and wave with unbridled enthusiasm.  On the uphills, greetings consisted of  slight nods and brief hand gestures.  I wondered to myself if my uphill greeting looked even remotely friendly as I pictured my face scrunched up in agony and despair!

During the Sunshine Coast leg of the trip we were treated to scenic ferry crossings on the Earl's cove ferry and the Langdale ferry.  These crossings are a bit of a mixed blessing for cyclists as you must watch your timing carefully.  Miss a crossing and you can be faced with a long and leg stiffening wait until the next sailing.  Today we were fortunate and managed to make our scheduled crossings.

Last to load, Jane enthusiastically thanks the ferry worker for waiting

Talk on the Saltery Bay - Earls Cove crossing was all about Skookumchuck Narrows.  The narrows, connecting Sechelt and Jervis Inlets are famous for their tidal rapids.  200 billion gallons of water will flow through the narrows on a 3 metre tide.  Just imagine that! With the recent super moon , rumour had it the tidal swings would be at their best.  "Skooks" attracts white water enthusiasts looking to play in the surf...not for beginner paddlers to be sure!  We were really tempted to divert to Skookumchuck, but knew we would not have a hope to make our ferry connections if we took this side trip.  Next time - for sure!

Breathtaking views from the ferry

The north section of the Sunshine Coast route is my favourite.  Traffic is generally light, with the occasional surge after a ferry docks.  The route is up and down, so presents a challenge and keeps it interesting and once again we were treated to spectacular mountain and ocean views.

We enjoyed a lunch break at a turtle crossing by Ruby Lake and were pleased to see direct evidence of a successful conservation initiative.

Environmental stewardship at work - Ruby Lake

At Half Moon Bay, we chose to leave the highway, take a break from traffic and cycle along Redroofs Road through Sargeant Bay Provincial Park.  We rejoined the highway near Sechelt and pointed south to the ferry.  It had been quite a tiring day battling heat and hills and by the time we arrived at Davis Bay we were beat.  We stopped for a quick toe dip in the ocean only to return to find our bikes in a crumpled mess....our trusted steeds seemed to reflect how our bodies felt.

Collapsed bikes...what an omen!

The ride ended just outside Gibsons, a quaint seaside town, known as the gateway to the Sunshine Coast and made famous by the Beachcombers TV show.  Like salt on a wound, as we left Gibsons we were faced with one long, last hard climb before the final thrilling descent to the ferry terminal.  I suppose it is simply an exclamation point on a ride well done!

Relaxing on the home stretch!

Giggle

 Nothing gets a visit to Vancouver Island off to a better start than a Traditional Breakfast and fresh brewed coffee on the ferry!  One of my favourite parts of the breakfast experience is the cafeteria line-up.  Now I know that most grumble and groan at first glimpse of the line, but over the years, I have learned that the line is the place for conversation.  From long haul truck drivers to tourists from abroad, the cast of characters in the cafeteria line is something to enjoy.

This trip we were thrilled to be in line with a group of 8 kayakers.  They were starting the journey to Torquart Bay for a week of paddling in the Broken Islands.  We were green with envy as the Broken Islands is one of our most favourite paddling destinations!  There was one very experienced paddler organizing and leading the group, but most were new to sea kayaking.  I chatted away with one lady, who had actually never been in a kayak.  I must confess, I was a little shocked that her destination of choice for her "maiden voyage" was the Broken Islands.  However, she seemed fit and had great confidence in her trip leader.  As we chatted, it quickly became evident that she was quite nervous about her upcoming adventure.  She took me aside and asked me if we could speak in confidence.  I wasn't really sure what to expect and hoped that I could answer her questions and relieve some of her worries...and then there it was, the most pressing and daunting question of all.....  "What happens if you have to PEE?"

Map and Route Tips

This is a challenging and rewarding cycle route, but for those not interested in two wheel modes of transportation check out these driving directions from Hello BC.  Drive the Coastal Circle Route

Be sure to check your ferry times and distances between ferries....nothing dampens your spirits more than arriving at the ferry terminal to watch the boat sail away without you!  www.bcferries.com