Bike Overnighter - Whidbey Island

Fall Weekend Cycling Getaway - Fairhaven to Seattle via Whidbey Island

It sounds cliche to say that the route from Fairhaven to Seattle has something for everyone, BUT it really does!  Rolling farmland, including pumpkin patches and apple farms, rugged coast, hills, headwinds, ferries, trains, planes on trains, trails, concrete jungles, shipyards, canals, panoramic ocean views, bridges, a bustling urban centre and numerous historic points of interest including the stunning Chuckanut Drive and the historic forts on Whidbey Island. We were only gone for a couple of days, but this ride makes you feel like you have lived a month!

In search of the Great Pumpkin

Our trip began in the quaint and historic town of Fairhaven, a great place for Sunday brunches and leisurely weekend strolls!  Our plan was to leave our car in the Amtrak long term parking lot, cycle to Seattle and catch the train back from Seattle at the end of our trip.  We were quite tickled with the long term pay parking system at the parking lot, not exactly high tech, but very effective.  Simply stuff your cash in the slot!

High Tech Pay Parking system - Fairhaven

We set off heading south and immediately noticed a trail marker for the Interurban Greenway.  Always excited to be on trails, we jumped on and discovered a great trail almost all the way to Larabee State Park.

Interurban Greenway trail marker

Fall colours along the Interurban Greenway

Leaving the trail we connected back up to the road and joined the famous Chuckanut Drive.  This road hugs Chuckanut mountain as you wind your way along the coast.  It can be a bit nerve racking for cyclists as the shoulders are narrow and being a scenic byway traffic can be heavy.  Having said that, it is a route frequented by cyclists and we enjoyed the lush forest and ocean vistas as we travelled along the drive.

Ocean view from road side pull out on Chuckanut Drive.

Leaving Chuckanut Drive the route flattens out as you travel through farm land and eventually along Padilla Bay.  Being late October and a forecast for heavy rain, we had decided to leave our tent at home and look for motels and Band B's along the way.  For our first night, we thought it would be fun to visit the Swinomish Casino.  Well, of course, best laid plans - it turns out the casino was full.  With heavy hearts and even heavier legs we kept on pedalling in search of a place to stay for the night.  We had a late start and were beginning to get worried about losing daylight.

Apple Orchard - view of Padilla Bay in the background

Not too far up the road we stumbled upon the Fidalgo Country Inn and were instantly transported back in time.  The parking lot came complete with lobbyists dressed in camouflage gear, armed with US flags advocating for Bill 594, which to our knowledge addresses background checks for firearms.  Despite our complete ignorance of the issue, the gang was friendly and welcomed us to the Inn!  They recommended we eat at the local diner.  We took their advice and we enjoyed fantastic clam chowder soup and the sounds of 60's music.....we fully expected to be caught up in a 60's style protest march after dinner, but I suggest our imaginations got the best of us.

Day 2 took us across the famous Deception Pass bridge to Whidbey Island, "the shortest distance to far away".  The Deception Pass bridge is listed on the National Register of Historic places and is recognized for it's engineering, architecture and as the gateway to Whidbey Island.  The bridge is located within Deception Pass State Park, 4,134 acres of amazing!

Deception Pass Bridge

Views: Deception Pass Bridge, Fidalgo Island Washington State by Jane Weiss (Jane and Rob)

The Island features many cycling routes and we enjoyed the numerous options to sidetrack off the highway and take the back roads through rolling farmland.  Being October traffic was light, but unfortunately the fall prevailing winds are from the south...and they were mean!  We battled all day and welcomed the break from the Kettles trail and Rhodo Trail near Coupeville.  The trails provided relief from both the wind and the road. We arrived in Freeland and began our search for a place a stay.

Picture Perfect barn

Bike route follows the shoreline

Wind breaks at Picnic area - Oak Harbour

Kettles Trail near Coupeville

As we began to cycle in to town we were greeted by three dogs....and within seconds the chase was on!  We haven't been chased by dogs in a very long time and it brought back memories of our Mississippi River Cycle Tour.  Just as we were beginning to panic, out came Sophie, the dog's owner.  Sophie was the best!  She had those dogs under control and back in their yard in seconds.  She apologized over and over and then gave us the most enthusiastic set of directions I think we have ever heard! Sophie recommended the local motel and we took her advice.  As we settled in to our room, the skies opened up and it began to pour.  We looked at each other in disbelief.  What are the odds of cycling for 2 full days in October and not have rain?

Deer crossing

Clinton ferry terminal

Creative use of bike wheels to make whirly gigs

We were up early on our last day, as we had quite a few miles to get under the belt in order to arrive in Seattle in time for our train.  Our route took us along Highway 525 to Clinton where we travelled by ferry to Mukilteo, a quaint waterfront community on Puget Sound.  We learned that Mukilteo means "a good camping ground" and I think we would agree.  The town has fantastic views of both the Olympic and North Cascade mountains.

Mukilteo

From Mukilteo we began a long uphill climb in search of the Interurban Trail, a multi-use path connecting Everett with Seattle along the old Puget Sound Electric Railway corridor.  Although, you probably would not call stretches of the trail  "pretty" we found ourselves very impressed to have a dedicated multi-use pathway in the heart of such a heavily populated and busy area.  Stretches of the trail paralleled Interstate 5, so it was very noisy at times, but the luxury of not being in traffic or negotiating intersections was such a treat.

Interurban Trail marker

Great signage

Miles of designated multi-use path

The trail was well signed and although we took a couple of wrong turns, I must confess the mistakes were ours.  At one point we were actually standing directly underneath a trail marker and missed the turn because we didn't look up.  Not our proudest moment!

We ended our trip with a classic brain fart!  After nearing downtown and travelling along Phinney Street - a really funky street with a definite Vancouver feel to it, we found ourselves crossing a bridge and looking for directions to downtown.  We were planning to either connect with the Burke-Gilman Trail or the Elliott Bay Trail for the last leg of our trip.

Canal crossing near Lake Union

We noticed a large hill, but to our right in the opposite direction of the hill was a bike path.  Being tired and grumpy we jumped at the chance to hop on the Ship Canal Trail in a feeble attempt to avoid the hill.  In our efforts to avoid this last hill, we completely lost all sense of direction and ended up cycling miles out of our way along the wrong trail.  Once again we amazed ourselves how fatigue, hunger and a sight of a hill can completely cloud judgement.  Having said that, the Ship Canal Trail was a lot of fun as it weaved through the shipyards and railway yards giving us a view of Seattle we had never seen before.

We stopped to see how work on our private yacht was coming along

Tourists enjoy a boat tour

Planes on Trains - you really don't see that every day!

Once we realized our mistake, we back tracked and made our way to downtown Seattle.....even managing to find time for a quick celebration drink before boarding the train.

Space Needle welcomes us to downtown

Celebration drink and rest at the pier

View from above - King Street Amtrak station

Miraculously the rain had held off for the full three days of our trip.  As we toasted our good fortune....we began to plan our next outing!  Rumour has it the salmon are running on the Harrison River!





Giggle:

Rob deserves all the credit in the world for capturing amazing photos on our trips.  He is always looking for an interesting shot or story to tell.  Usually, I am fully supportive and enjoy our frequent breaks while he satisfies his "inner photographer."  However, in all honesty, on more difficult days, those full of headwinds and hills I must confess that sometimes my patience runs a little short with his frequent picture stops.  At my age, when you get the train moving, sometimes it is just better to keep it going down the track!

On day 2 of our ride we had struggled against really strong headwinds for the entire morning and as we approached Oak Harbor we were fighting just to stay on the bikes.  We kept pushing forward at a painstakingly slow pace, grateful that it wasn't raining when Rob spotted a really cute roadside market, complete with giant pumpkin.  Of course, he couldn't pass this opportunity by and before I knew it he was trying to setup his bike in front of the pumpkin.  We were also lost, so Rob pulled out the maps....and with one sudden huge gust of wind....the bikes blew over and our maps went flying!!!!  We took one look at each other and burst out laughing...what else could we do?

The wind steals our maps and topples the bikes

Map and Route Tips:



Day 2



Day 3


Amtrak

Clinton Ferry

Downloadable Cycling Mpas - Whidbey Island

Cycling the BC Coastal Circle Route

The British Columbia Coastal Circle Route takes in the best of Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast.

Coastal Circle Route scenic drive - even better on 2 wheels!

Cyclists can power through the route in a couple of challenging, knee pumping days....or spend days, even weeks exploring seaside towns, beaches and campsites.  Really, your available time and of course budget will shape your trip.

Getting ready to depart from Horseshoe Bay

We had a little three day getaway and chose to shorten the route and travel from Horseshoe Bay by ferry to Nanaimo and begin the circle back to Horseshoe Bay via Powell River and the Sunshine Coast.  Beginning the circle on the Island and heading north for the start of the ride means that the ocean is always on your right hand side, allowing for maximum ocean viewing and easy access to beaches and ice cream shops!  (32 flavours of Island Farms Ice Cream)

Ocean views inspire riders along the route

When asked for advice, we always suggest that cyclists get off the ferry and immediately pull over to allow for traffic to pass.  However, we never follow our own advice as we are always chomping at the bit to get moving.  Today was no exception so we battled the truck and camper traffic and began the climb from the ferry dock up to the E & N Trail.  This trail is a terrific 8km shared pathway and a sure fire way to avoid heavy traffic as you leave Nanaimo.

E & N Trail in Nanaimo

We cruised along the "old island highway", oceanside route, through the communities of Parksville, Qualicum Beach, Bowser and Fanny Bay enjoying the ocean and mountain views.

Sandy beaches are a highlight at Rathtrevor Beach

ICE stop in Parksville

Near Fanny Bay we were treated to a fantastic and well earned downhill section.  The day had been really hot, with temperatures hitting the 30 degree mark - quite unusual for the coast.  We welcomed the sight of the downhill and began to cruise!  As luck would have it, I hit a staple and flatted out.  I tried to yell for Rob to stop, but he was off like the wind.  Rob was carrying the toolkit, so I reluctantly got off my bike, grumbled away to myself about missing the downhill and why oh why could this not happen on an UP hill and began to walk.  Then it occurred to me, that Rob would probably, eventually, hopefully become worried that I was not with him.  (or maybe he would just enjoy the peace and quiet?)   True to form, Rob noticed I was missing, turned around and cycled back up the hill to meet me.  Marriage intact and touched by the effort it took for him to cycle back up the hill in the heat, we (and by we, I mean Rob) repaired my tire.

My favourite bike mechanic at work

Exhausted, hot and grumpy we decided to rejuvenate with a quick splash and dip in the river at Rosewell Creek Provincial Park.

Shady trails through Rosewell Creek Provincial Park

Entrance way to Rosewell Creek Provincial Park

How do you spell relief?

We ended our day at DHent, a fabulous B and B in Comox.  The hosts are kind and gracious, the food delicious and the beer is always cold! The Comox Valley, encompassing Cumberland, Courtenay and Comox, is one of our favourite places to visit.  The people are terrific and the valley offers everything an outdoor enthusiast could ask for.  From sea kayaking to fishing to hiking to golf and cycling, there is something for everyone.

Courtenay Riverway provides a great escape from city traffic

Entrance to Comox

We spent a day visiting and exploring the Comox area and then were up bright and early to cycle to the ferry for the crossing to Powell River.  Early morning is our favourite times to ride.  Traffic is non-existent, the air is cool and there is a feeling of peacefulness and solitude.  Today was no exception, and as we arrived at the ferry the sun was rising and the moon was setting - a picture perfect start to the day.

Ferry lineup to Powell River

Rising sun welcomes the day at the ferry terminal

Moon sets over the Comox Glacier

There were several cyclists on the road, and I chuckled to myself as I noticed that the enthusiasm and friendliness of the greetings as we passed each other appeared directly related to the hills.  On downward glides, oncoming cyclists would shout hearty hellos and wave with unbridled enthusiasm.  On the uphills, greetings consisted of  slight nods and brief hand gestures.  I wondered to myself if my uphill greeting looked even remotely friendly as I pictured my face scrunched up in agony and despair!

During the Sunshine Coast leg of the trip we were treated to scenic ferry crossings on the Earl's cove ferry and the Langdale ferry.  These crossings are a bit of a mixed blessing for cyclists as you must watch your timing carefully.  Miss a crossing and you can be faced with a long and leg stiffening wait until the next sailing.  Today we were fortunate and managed to make our scheduled crossings.

Last to load, Jane enthusiastically thanks the ferry worker for waiting

Talk on the Saltery Bay - Earls Cove crossing was all about Skookumchuck Narrows.  The narrows, connecting Sechelt and Jervis Inlets are famous for their tidal rapids.  200 billion gallons of water will flow through the narrows on a 3 metre tide.  Just imagine that! With the recent super moon , rumour had it the tidal swings would be at their best.  "Skooks" attracts white water enthusiasts looking to play in the surf...not for beginner paddlers to be sure!  We were really tempted to divert to Skookumchuck, but knew we would not have a hope to make our ferry connections if we took this side trip.  Next time - for sure!

Breathtaking views from the ferry

The north section of the Sunshine Coast route is my favourite.  Traffic is generally light, with the occasional surge after a ferry docks.  The route is up and down, so presents a challenge and keeps it interesting and once again we were treated to spectacular mountain and ocean views.

We enjoyed a lunch break at a turtle crossing by Ruby Lake and were pleased to see direct evidence of a successful conservation initiative.

Environmental stewardship at work - Ruby Lake

At Half Moon Bay, we chose to leave the highway, take a break from traffic and cycle along Redroofs Road through Sargeant Bay Provincial Park.  We rejoined the highway near Sechelt and pointed south to the ferry.  It had been quite a tiring day battling heat and hills and by the time we arrived at Davis Bay we were beat.  We stopped for a quick toe dip in the ocean only to return to find our bikes in a crumpled mess....our trusted steeds seemed to reflect how our bodies felt.

Collapsed bikes...what an omen!

The ride ended just outside Gibsons, a quaint seaside town, known as the gateway to the Sunshine Coast and made famous by the Beachcombers TV show.  Like salt on a wound, as we left Gibsons we were faced with one long, last hard climb before the final thrilling descent to the ferry terminal.  I suppose it is simply an exclamation point on a ride well done!

Relaxing on the home stretch!

Giggle

 Nothing gets a visit to Vancouver Island off to a better start than a Traditional Breakfast and fresh brewed coffee on the ferry!  One of my favourite parts of the breakfast experience is the cafeteria line-up.  Now I know that most grumble and groan at first glimpse of the line, but over the years, I have learned that the line is the place for conversation.  From long haul truck drivers to tourists from abroad, the cast of characters in the cafeteria line is something to enjoy.

This trip we were thrilled to be in line with a group of 8 kayakers.  They were starting the journey to Torquart Bay for a week of paddling in the Broken Islands.  We were green with envy as the Broken Islands is one of our most favourite paddling destinations!  There was one very experienced paddler organizing and leading the group, but most were new to sea kayaking.  I chatted away with one lady, who had actually never been in a kayak.  I must confess, I was a little shocked that her destination of choice for her "maiden voyage" was the Broken Islands.  However, she seemed fit and had great confidence in her trip leader.  As we chatted, it quickly became evident that she was quite nervous about her upcoming adventure.  She took me aside and asked me if we could speak in confidence.  I wasn't really sure what to expect and hoped that I could answer her questions and relieve some of her worries...and then there it was, the most pressing and daunting question of all.....  "What happens if you have to PEE?"

Map and Route Tips

This is a challenging and rewarding cycle route, but for those not interested in two wheel modes of transportation check out these driving directions from Hello BC.  Drive the Coastal Circle Route

Be sure to check your ferry times and distances between ferries....nothing dampens your spirits more than arriving at the ferry terminal to watch the boat sail away without you!  www.bcferries.com

Mayne Island by Bike

The Gulf Islands are one of British Columbia's  best kept secrets.  Just a short ferry ride from the mainland, there is so much to explore and discover and cycling is the way to do it.

Waiting to board the ferry at Tsawwassen

Nothing beats the January blahs better than a weekend getaway to Mayne Island.  Our friends (who shall remain nameless to protect the innocent) invited us for a weekend at their cottage.  We began early in the morning cycling to the Tsawwassen ferry terminal.  It was a spooky ride as the fog was dense.  You always feel so vulnerable on your bike while riding in the fog, yet at the same time your senses seem to come alive.  We rode cautiously, listening to the call of the eagles and watching everything come to life.  The air was crisp and cool and as the fog began to lift we were treated to a wonderful sunrise.  It felt so good to be back on the bikes....mindlessly pedalling through the fog!

The ferry makes a quick stop at Galiano Island (another great bike destination) and then proceeds on to Mayne Island.  As you approach the dock at Mayne Island you leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind you and either consciously or unconsciously begin to adapt to "Island time" The cycling on Mayne is wonderful...although be prepared for a few hills and cycle in single file as there are no shoulders.  Having said that, the drivers are thoughtful and give plenty of room when passing.

Beautiful views are plentiful

Snowdrops remind us that spring is around the corner

We cycled from the ferry to the cottage...which is truly a bit of heaven on earth.  The cottage reflects the hosts...warm & friendly...like a big hug.  It features panoramic ocean views - in fact, you can quickly lose track of time and also the will to move as you sit by the wood burning stove and gaze at the ocean.

There is much to do on Mayne - beautiful parks including one of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserves at Bennet Bay, beach combing, artists galleries and to our surprise a Japanese Garden.  This weekend we chose to hike to  the spectacular viewpoint on Mount Parke.  We were thrilled at the panoramic view, yet couldn't stay for long as we were losing daylight.

Mayne residents enjoying an all you can eat lunch buffet

The weekend went all too quickly and we left feeling rejuvenated and ready to return to explore more of the Island...next time by kayak?

Giggle of the day:

The weekend was full of laughter and great conversation.  Giggles were plentiful.  Here are a few:

While in Minor's Bay we decided to pop in to the local grocery store to pick up some lunch meat.  As we waited for service, a friendly voice came on the loud speaker and said,  "Shelly to the deli."  We burst in to laughter and thanked Shelly for the giggle and for the shaved ham...of course!

Car stops - The island features numerous car stops....a sign of community and of days gone by.  The signage both inspires and amuses!  Here's the scoop:

You are welcome to use our 25 Mayne Island Car Stops. This is free, voluntary, alternative transportation that is environmentally and community-friendly. We encourage drivers to share the ride, reducing fuel consumption and our ecological footprint. We encourage pedestrians who need a lift — including those arriving by ferry or boat — to try waiting at a Car Stop, and be open to the generosity of drivers. (Unlike a bus, there's no regular schedule; like a bus, you trust the driver.)

Car Stops signs are green and white road signs located at pullouts all around Mayne. They indicate the locations where drivers may expect to see passengers seeking a ride. They are two-way stops, so if you're standing there, indicate with your hand which way you're heading, and if you cross the street, be careful.

THE RULES:

• Drivers don't have to take the first in line;
• you don't have to accept a ride - that's fine.
• It's at your own risk if you take a lift,
• the ride is free, so consider it a gift.

CAR STOP - 

Last, but not least, as we rode back to the ferry dock to begin the trip home, we passed numerous Islanders on foot, with backpacks, suitcases, dollies all trudging along the main road back to the ferry.  It tickled us as we passed young and old on the "Mayne Island Pilgrimage."

Mayne Island "pilgrams" wait to disembark ... until we ride again!

Map and Route Tips:

BC Ferries - Schedules and Route information