Ride the Rim 2015 - Cycling Crater Lake National Park - Oregon

Envision a volcanic caldera formed over 7,700 years ago.  Nestled in this caldera is a lake so spectacular it leaves you speechless.  Now picture the deepest, prettiest colour of blue that you can imagine.  Add old growth forests, snow-capped peaks and open meadows blanketing the volcano’s outer slopes.  THAT is Crater Lake, one of Oregon’s natural wonders.  Located in Crater Lake National Park, the area is a mecca for tourists and outdoor enthusiasts alike.  From sightseeing to back country hiking, skiing and camping, there are many activities to keep visitors busy.

Wizard Island

We were drawn to the Park to participate in Ride the Rim, one of Crater Lake’s vehicle-free days.  During the event motorized traffic is excluded along East Rim Drive.  Cyclists, walkers, joggers and hikers are invited to share the scenic byway.  It was an incredible opportunity to experience the crater and we were thrilled to be taking part!

Panoramic View from East Rim Drive

I am sure cyclists around the world would agree that nothing beats a car free ride.  Whether it be a trail, special event or early morning outing the sheer joy of riding alone on the road, without the fear of being run over or the smell of exhaust is something to be treasured.  What struck us most about the ride was the beauty and the silence.  At first it seemed surreal, almost eerie, to be cycling side by side along the rim of a crater in total silence, but we quickly became accustomed to it.  We felt even more connected to the natural beauty of the area.  A once in a lifetime experience, for sure!

Our day began early.  We packed up the camp stove, oatmeal and coffee and enjoyed a sunrise breakfast on the rim of the crater.  We ate in silence as we watched the morning light hit Wizard Island, which in fact is a volcano inside a volcano.  Unbelievable!

You can't beat the view 

Wizard Island is a volcano in a volcano

Fueled by breaky and inspired by the scenery, we decided it was time to hop on the bikes.  To say the ride was physically demanding would be an understatement.  The route is 33 miles long and we would argue there is not an inch of “flat” on the entire route.  You are either grinding and mashing your way up or screaming downhill at speeds that make most cyclists (apart from the Young Stuff and Road Warriors) nervous.  Fortunately, the route features thirty overlooks and pull-outs, and we stopped at each and every one of them!  We giggled as we read the route description, “cyclists unaccustomed to high altitudes may find that the elevation makes breathing difficult.”  Although we climbed to 7,700 feet, I would suggest it was the long, steep climbs that made breathing “difficult.”

North Junction Parking Area at 7,025 feet

Rock walls line this section of the route

The water is a deep, deep blue colour

We were excited to see a huge cross section of people, all ages, all shapes, sizes and fitness levels participating in the ride.  It was a festive day and we were amazed at the many different styles of bikes we saw:

• Racing bikes
• Mountain bikes
• Touring bikes
• Cruisers
• Trail a Bike
• Electric bikes
• Recumbent bikes
• Hand Pedal bikes

Volunteers manned rest stops along the route and provided water, snacks and encouragement to the riders.  There was a sense of camaraderie amongst the participants and we enjoyed sharing stories and laughs at the look-outs and rest stops.

Approaching the Mount Scott Rest Stop

Riders break up the climb and enjoy the views

Unfortunately, my day ended on a low.  I lost the mental game and I think it will haunt me until we return to Ride the Rim again.  We descended from the Dutton Ridge rest stop to the Park Headquarters.  As we approached the gate, volunteers cheered us on and directed us to the bike shuttles.  I was thrilled!  What a sense of accomplishment.  It was then that Rob pointed out our car was parked at Rim Village and that we needed to keep going.  I felt a deep sense of despair as we began to cycle up West Rim Drive.  The climb was quite steep and this stretch of road was open to vehicles.  After a wonderful car free day it felt quite overwhelming to me to be cycling in traffic.  I battled for a couple of miles, and then I QUIT.  I never QUIT!  I can’t believe that I QUIT! Rob looked at me in disbelief, but wisely decided not to argue with me.  I turned back to wait at the shuttle point and Rob rode alone to retrieve the car.  As soon as he was out of sight, I regretted my decision.  I debated trying to get back on the bike, but I simply didn’t have the mental or physical strength.  It was a great lesson in mind over matter and I vow to return to complete the ride…..because despite the end to my day, this was one of the most beautiful, challenging and unique day trips we have ever done.

Crater Lake captured our hearts!

Phantom Ship - resembles a small sailboat

Thanks to the event organizers, sponsors and incredible volunteers and kudos to those who imagined a car free day on the Rim.  We can’t think of a better way to experience Crater Lake!

Thank you Ride the Rim 2015

Giggle of the Day:

From Mount Hood to the coast, Oregon is one of our favourite States to visit!  Magnificent beaches, lush forests and friendly folk make it a hot spot for outdoor adventures.  We would be remiss to point out that Oregon also has a reputation for its “hippie” culture and it was Oregonian hippies who provided us with our giggle of the day.  We crossed the border into Oregon, made our way over the Columbia River and successfully navigated through Portland when we decided to pull in to a rest stop and stretch our legs.  As we approached the parking lot we spotted this custom ride…..complete with motivational quotes and a chicken coop on the roof.  Welcome to Oregon!

Here we go...again!

Map and Route Tips:

Travel Oregon created a wonderful promo campaign featuring the 7 Natural Wonders of Oregon.  Take a peek at their video, and then book your vacation.

Crater Lake National Park has two motels and two campgrounds.  Reservations are recommended and can be made in advance.  We pitched our tent at Mazama Campground.  Check out the Lodging and Camping Brochure.

Campsite at Mazama Campground

Are morning people happier?

At the risk of alienating my three children and night owls every where, I dare to ask the question:  are morning people happier?  Over the last few years, Rob and I have been conducting a study, albeit a totally unscientific and unsubstantiated study, but thought provoking none the less.  Now, I must confess to a personal bias.  My favourite time of the day is early morning.  I have always been and will likely always be a morning person.  Yes - one of those people who usually wakes up perky and ready to go, much to the annoyance of those around me.

Morning coffee on the beach - Broken Island Group

In my humble opinion, nothing is better than crawling out of tent, brewing that first cup of coffee and quietly sitting on the beach watching the world wake up. Thankfully, Rob is also a morning person....our biological clocks are in synch enabling us to share an early morning giggle and outing.

I would contend that we are not alone and hence the premise for my question.  As we hike, bike and paddle we have noticed over the years that the greetings from others on the trails are usually heartier and happier in the morning.  Have you noticed?

Golden Ears Provincial Park

Maybe the possibility of a new day and new adventure ahead leaves folk feeling optimistic or maybe as the day goes on the weight of the day, the to do lists and unfinished tasks begin to take their toll.  Whatever the reasons, I encourage you to join our study and help us to answer the question:  are morning people happier?

I am not sure if Ben Franklin was right when he said early to bed and early to rise makes a men healthy, wealthy and wise, but for me....early to rise means a good cuppa Joe is waiting.

Happy trails!

I'm their leader....which way did they go?

True Confessions:

I must be truthful! Rob usually crawls out of the tent first and gets the water boiling and the coffee brewing.  We have been hiking, paddling and cycling for as long as I can remember and over the years we have developed an easy rhythm around camp.  I contend that it is this rhythm and unspoken adherence to our roles and responsibilities that forms the basis of a happy trip (and maybe happy marriage?)  Rob braves the elements to get the coffee on, and I pack up the gear in preparation for the day ahead.  Maybe, if everyone on the trail could find someone like Rob to brew the coffee, we would all be morning people.

Cross Border Shopping

On the weekends, the border beckons many a Canadian shopper looking for great deals down "south."  I must confess, we take a sick pleasure in doing our cross border shopping by bicycle, although the size of our panniers does severely limit the shopping experience.  None the less, it is a cheap thrill to cycle past those long weekend lineups of weary shoppers idling in their cars.

This trip we decided to venture across the line in search of Tillamook cheese.  Yes - we are the cliche.  Canadians who cross the line for cheese.  I have stopped being embarrassed by the "cheese head" label, and have instead proudly embraced the name.  Years ago, on a family camping trip to Oregon we stumbled upon the Tillamook Cheese Factory and have been faithful connoisseurs ever since.  The Cheese Factory is an award -winning farmer-owned dairy co-op based in Tillamook, Oregon and the cheese is fantastic....not to mention the ice cream!

Improved bike lane on 20th Ave. in Surrey, BC

Our route took us along Zero Avenue on the Canadian side of the border.  Although, quite hilly, the route is peaceful and scenic.  As you cycle along the border, you pass large estate homes and farmland.

Border marker on zero avenue

Welcome to Washington - Official Signage

We followed Zero Avenue to the border crossing at Highway 13 near Aldergrove.  The Custom's Officer was friendly and teased us as we produced our Nexus cards.  He seemed to enjoy the irony of cyclists using Nexus cards to speed up the entry process to the United States.

Welcome to Washington - Unofficial Signage

For those who may miss the Welcome to Washington State sign, the sight of the Marijuana Tour Limo provides a clue that you have entered Washington State, where pot has been legalized.

Dairy farms line the road

The return trip on the US side of the border is a little less hilly.  Once again, farms line the road and you begin to feel miles and miles away from the big city.  Today we enjoyed a quiet ride.  Only the odd cow seemed remotely interested in our presence.

Prior to heading home, we stopped in Blaine to take in the view of the harbour and of course, pick up our cheese!  We proudly purchased 7.5 pounds - yes pounds - of Tillamook Cheese.  I tried to put it all in Rob's panniers when he wasn't looking, but unfortunately, he seemed to read my mind and we ended up sharing the load.

Viewpoint of Harbour - Blaine, WA

Border traffic was very heavy by the time we were ready to return to Canada.  Amid the good natured catcalls and folks taking our pictures we made our way to the front of the line.  Quite a testimonial to the benefits of active transportation!

LOVE the lineups - when on a bike

As we approached the Douglas Border crossing we hopped off our bikes in order to enjoy Peace Arch Provincial Park.  This 9 hectare park straddles the border and is a beautiful, well maintained park space.  The Peace Arch Monument serves as a landmark and symbol commemorating the lasting peace between Canada and the United States.  The arch is engraved with "Children of a Common Mother" on one side and "Brethren Dwelling Together in Unity" on the other side - powerful messages.

In the summer months, the park is full of tourists and the Arch is a popular gathering place for folk from all around the world.

Peace Arch Monument in the background

What traffic?

Welcome to BC - Visitor Centre

Giggle of the day:

The ride along 0 Avenue features a series of hill climbs.  You will often see road cyclists using the loop for training as this route is generally free of traffic and the rolling hills are perfect for providing that little extra challenge. Now, I must confess I am not the fastest rider even on flat terrain, with the wind at my back, but I do try my best.  Today was no different.  I took a look at the hill, dug-in and worked hard on keeping a steady cadence as I began to climb.  I was feeling quite proud of my efforts until I came up to a radar trap.  The policemen were happy to inform me that I was doing a nice, comfortable leisurely 17 mph.  They snickered a little at the word "leisurely."  I waved and tried to smile as I grunted and groaned my way past them.  And, yes, Rob was quite a distance ahead....his mashing technique does seem to be effective on those hills!  I did not ask what he was clocked at!  Sometimes, it is just better not to know.

Map and Route Tips:

On the return to Canada there is a special entrance for bikes, and if you have a Nexus card, you will fly through the lineup.

The shoulders on this route are very narrow or non-existent, so cyclists should be comfortable riding in traffic.  Not a good route for families.

Urban Mushing and Steelhead Fishin"

Urban Mushers and determined Fishers were the highlights of this ride along the Vedder river dyke trails.  Our day began at the Mckay Creek Trail head, part of the Trans Canada Trail.

Trans Canada Trail marker points the way

As we were unloading our bikes and getting ready to hit the trail, we were greeted in the parking lot by Kathy, an Urban Musher.  Intrigued we delayed our start to chat with her.  We learned all about this dry land, dog-powered sport called Urban Mushing.  Her dogs were more than happy to give us a demo and before we knew it they were harnessed up and ready to pull.  Kathy and her team were busy training for the upcoming Iron Paws event.  I must confess, Iron Paws brought a smile to my face.  As we bid farewell, it struck me yet again that there are countless ways for people and pets to get outside and play!

Urban Musher and her dog team

We planned our route for the day to take us along the dyke trails on the both the north and south side of the Vedder river and Vedder canal.  This loop was scenic, flat and fascinating!

View of the Vedder Canal

We departed the parking lot and as we pedaled we could hear distant rumblings.  At first we thought there must be blasting going on in the area but soon we discovered we were nearing the Abbotsford Fish and Game Club.  Judging by the noise, it was clearly a busy day on the range!

Dark Sky Park courtesy of the Fraser Valley Astronomers Society

After cycling past McDonald park, we passed by an Astronomy Viewing Area, and joked about the "mini Stonehenge" in the background.  We later discovered that McDonald Park is officially designated a dark sky park with the hopes of offering views of the Night sky, minus light pollution, for many years to come.  The Fraser Valley Astronomers Society host educational programs and events at the park throughout the year.

Vedder South Dyke Trail marker

The trail was very well marked, easy to follow and yes - FLAT!

Heavily treed area of the trail

Although the trail was on a dyke and flat, we were pleasantly surprised by the variety.  From open farmland to tight, twisting turns through forested areas, the trail was an interesting ride....and did I mention FLAT?

Snow capped mountains and cherry blossoms mark an early spring

River view

Scenic viewpoint along the dyke trail

It was quite a busy day on both the trail and on the river.  At every turn we stumbled upon another fisher in search of Steelhead trout. 

The Steelhead seem to be facing big odds 

Log Jams - Paddlers beware!

During a quick lunch break we had the pleasure of meeting Dave.  Clearly, Dave had spent many an hour on the river.  He shared stories of his big catches and of course the one that got away.  He did manage to catch a record breaking 41 pound Steelhead earlier this year and delighted us with pictures of the catch.  He recommended Steelybeads as the bait of choice and Fishbum as the apparel of choice. I am embarrassed to say that at times we had no idea what he was talking about, but he spoke with unbridled passion and enthusiasm so we listened intently!  Maybe, it is time for us to take some of Dave's advice and explore fishing by kayak?

Hmmm.....should kayak fishing be next?

Giggle of the day:

As we made our way along the south dyke trail we stumbled upon a retired gentleman out fishing for the day.  He was the picture of happiness....deep laugh lines marked his weather beaten face.  We chatted for a while about the trail and the river and then the conversation turned to fishing.  He was out looking for Steelhead and to quote, "the fish taste like $@%# this time of year, but my wife doesn't nag me or give me jobs when I am out fishing.  And best of all if I catch something, I don't have to pay for dinner!"


Maps and Route Tips:


The trail for the most part is hard packed gravel, best suited for touring or mountain bikes.

Great ride for families, especially along the Rotary Trail in Chilliwack which features a virtual tour.  (another example of technology in the outdoors)

Be sure to check out the Great Blue Heron Nature Reserve

Parks and Trails in Chilliwack

Trans Canada Trail

Fishing the Vedder River

A Working River - Cycle along the Fraser River

To call the Mighty Fraser a working river is an understatement.  The Fraser is one of the longest rivers in British Columbia flowing over 1,375 km from it's source near Mt. Robson to the Pacific Ocean. It is rich in history and has played a huge part in the development of B.C.'s settlement, transportation and economy.

Fraser River

This bike route, beginning in Richmond, provides up close and personal views of the river in action.  The entire ride is one of contrasts: road riding and dyke trails, light and heavy industry, parkland, scenic views, and residential development all somehow existing along a few square kilometres of space.

We began the ride near the Bridgeport sky train station and River Rock Casino in Richmond, BC.  (a potential pit stop on the way home?)  Within minutes we were cycling along River Road past the site of the Richmond Night Market,  This summer market, an annual tradition, features over 250 merchandise booths and over 80 food vendors.  An event not to be missed.

Bike path leaving Richmond

After passing the market, we quickly found our way off the road and onto a dyke trail - much better views of the river and of course, traffic free.

Heavy industry along the river banks

One of the highlights of the trip was the short section through the lumber mill.  Massive cranes and trucks lined both sides of the trail and at one point we were diverted through our very own bike tunnel!  The equipment was enormous, and we felt quite small and vulnerable on our bikes as we cruised by.

A bike tunnel!

We continued on and within minutes came across No. 7 Road Pier Park, complete with picnic tables and washrooms.  The old CN Rail loading pier is now a fantastic lookout and fishing spot.  It seemed a little surreal to stumble across this little oasis after just leaving the lumber mill and heavy truck traffic along River Road.

No 7 Road Pier Park

East of the park the route gets a little more intense as the ride takes you from the serenity of the park to the hustle and bustle of the Queensborough bridge  (complete with a panoramic view of the Insurance Corporation of British Columbia's salvage yard.)  Just as you are feeling that the ride isn't quite the quiet, scenic weekend getaway you were looking for the route connects to the BC Parkway Trail and cyclists are offered an escape from the heavy city traffic.

Burnaby Fraser Foreshore Park

We followed the north shore of the river for the return leg, and thoroughly enjoyed the route through the Burnaby Fraser Foreshore Park.  As we exited the park, we stopped at a viewpoint and watched a tug boat in action.  It was something to see the Boom Man hop out of the tug and scamper his way across the logs.  We were fascinated by his speed, balance and agility - a true athlete in action.  We were finding the roads a little slippery.  I can not imagine what the logs must have been like!  It was yet another contrast.  I could imagine the lumberjacks of yesteryear taking a moment out of their day for a good old fashioned log rolling competition.  I suggested that Rob might issue a challenge, but my suggestion appeared to fall on deaf ears.

Tugboat and Boom Man at work

We completed our ride by crossing the Fraser on the Canada Line bike/pedestrian path, a wonderful connector from Vancouver to Richmond.  As I rode across the bridge, the Skytrain rumbling on the tracks above me, I wondered what the early explorers, fur traders and ancestors of today's First Nations communities would think of a $10 million dollar bridge connecting a cycling/pedestrian network!

Canada Line bridge across the river

Giggle of the Day:

As we were packing up our bikes, we received an excited call from one of our gang.  Could we meet in East Vancouver to look at a truck he was thinking of purchasing?  Now, how can you turn down an invitation like that?  We drove to the meeting location and watched our boy close the deal!  Now here is the giggle.  Through a friend, of a friend, of a friend our family is now attached to a 1989 NUCK TRUCK FOR A BUCK.  Yes - it is true, Adam purchased a hand -painted Vancouver Canuck's truck for a dollar.  Being a student, he is short on funds to insure the vehicle, so the final laugh is on us, as the NUCK TRUCK is now parked proudly on our driveway until the summer guide season begins and the paycheques start to flow!

Nuck Truck

Map and Route Tips:

A place for off-leash kids - Richmond, BC by Bike

The bike paths around Richmond, BC are absolutely perfect for families and for those who value the philosophy of the Slow Bicycle Movement...and I quote, "The Slow Bicycle Movement is all about the journey, not the destination. The destination is, invariably, a fixed geographical point which isn't going anywhere so you're going to get there eventually.  It's about riding your bicycle. To work, to play. Casually, in a relaxed manner. With time to enjoy the self-propelled movement that you and you alone generate. And, of course, to look around and see the landscape - urban or not - that you pass by at your leisurely pace."

Horseshoe Slough Trail Head

On this particular day, we certainly rode at a relaxed pace.  I would like to say it was intentional, but the excess treats over the holiday season had us pulling a few extra pounds and at times left us short of breath.  No time like the present to get back into shape!

Nice flat riding

This ride is a wonderful New Year's Resolution route as it is FLAT and also offers all kinds of interesting vistas and stops along the way. From historic Finn Slough, London Heritage Farm and the Gulf of Georgia Cannery to the Fish and Chip stores and ice cream shops in Steveston Village, there is something for everyone.

Road Warriors on training ride - views of Fraser River

At times you must divert from the bike paths and ride on the roads.  The roads are popular with cyclists and it is not uncommon to see numerous groups out on training rides.  We had a good laugh as a racing team screamed by us, almost doubling our speed.  Clearly they had no intention of joining the Slow Bicycle Movement! You can imagine our surprise to stumble across them later that morning at a quaint little bakery in Steveston Village.  We imagined they were carb loading before finishing their workout, or at least that was their story and they were sticking to it.

Finn Slough is a terrific spot to hop off the bikes and take in the view.  This small community dates back to 1890 when a group of Finnish farmers arrived and establish a small fishing village.

Finn Slough

As we continued on the South Dyke trail we were afforded fantastic views of the Fraser River.  We stopped and chatted with a local fisherman.  He was a wealth of knowledge and happy to share information on the salmon runs.  Sadly, he may have had more theoretical knowledge than practical knowledge as he reluctantly admitted that he had not caught a fish in days!

Start of South Dyke Trail 

As we approached Steveston Village we had the pleasure of meeting a local "granny."  (That is how she introduced herself.)  At 82 years young she had retired from the East Coast and set up shop in the condos near Steveston Village.  She was entertaining any and all who stopped along the path to view the Trumpeter Swans.  She was a self-proclaimed guardian of the birds and proudly told stories of the young ones hatching and how much they had grown.  We left knowing the flock was in good hands.

Trumpeter Swans 

Leaving Steveston the path takes you along the Strait of Georgia from Garry Point Park to the Terra Nova Natural Area.  From the northwest corner of Richmond you have excellent views of the North Shore Mountains, Vancouver International Airport, and Sturgeon Banks.  It is quite a striking contrast to watch a Jumbo Jet rev its engines for takeoff at the same time as you take in the natural beauty of the tidal flats.

Following the trail along the Middle Arm of the Fraser brings you to the Richmond Oval, site of the 2010 Winter Olympics long track speed skating events.  The Oval has been converted into an incredible  Sport and Leisure centre and is now enjoyed by athletes of all ages and abilities!  Quite a legacy from the 2010 games.

Richmond Olympic Oval

If the Oval isn't enough for sport enthusiasts, the trail also swings past the John M.S. Lecky UBC Boathouse - home to the UBC varsity rowing teams.  If you are lucky you may even catch a regatta or two during your ride! 

John M.S. Lecky UBC Boathouse

The last leg of our route involved some street riding to connect to the Shell Road trail.  Of course, as soon as we hit the open road we were lost.  After a few wrong turns, in heavy traffic, we managed to find the trail back to our start point.  Really - our day wouldn't be complete if we weren't lost at least once!

Giggle of the day:

When our children were very young (feels like 100 years or so ago!) I fondly remember day trips and vacations in which our sole purpose was to find the "world's best playground."  We would pack delicious picnic lunches and head out on our family quest.  You can imagine our surprise and delight during our recent bike ride around Richmond to stumble across this adventure playground.

Best slide ever!

The magnificent tree fort and slide loomed in the distance and we burst into laughter as we approached the park signage...it read - "a place for off-leash kids!"

A place for off-leash kids - Terra Nova Adventure Play Environment

.....and the answer is yes!  We did try out the slide.  It is FAST!  Now where are all the kids?


Map and Route tips;

Richmond offers many different road and trail options.  Lots of opportunity to plan a route for age and ability.

Richmond Trails and Cycling Maps