Paddle Ross Lake - the North Cascades are Calling!

June in the Pacific Northwest can often be dull and rainy or at best a mixed bag of tricks, so when we saw the weather forecast for a weekend heat wave we knew we had to jump at the chance to paddle.  We decided to look for a new lake to explore and with the help of Google we came across Ross Lake in the North Cascades.

Jagged peaks of the North Cascades

There are 19 boat access back country campgrounds along Ross Lake.  Can you imagine? We felt like kids in a candy store.  Although they are called back country sites, they are well maintained and fully equipped with pit toilets, fire rings, picnic tables and bear caches.  The outhouses were even stocked with toilet paper.  Talk about luxury travel!  And just when you think it can't get any better...the campsites are FREE.  Visitors are simply asked to register and pick up a back country permit before heading into the park.

The only road access to Ross Lake is via Canada.  Leaving Hope you follow the Silver-Skagit road, a gravel access road, and wind your way along the Skagit River towards the Hozomeen Ranger Station.  The road is an old gravel, logging road but in good condition.  After a few km you arrive without any pomp or circumstance at the border to the US of A. 

Where do you scan your Nexus card?

A small A frame cabin serves as the Ranger Station and visitors are required to check in and pick up back country camping permits before entering the recreation area.  We had the pleasure of meeting Park Ranger Jeff.  What a great guy!  Clearly he loved his job and was thrilled to share his considerable knowledge of the park with us.  You can't beat local knowledge, so of course we asked for his recommendation on a campsite.  Although the campsites are all wonderful, he suggested the Lodgepole site...and we were not disappointed. 

Hozomeen Ranger Station - Jeff's Office

We did laugh, as when describing the Lodgepole campsite he said there were a stand of Lodgepole pine trees that looked much different than the rest of the trees.  He told us there was absolutely no way we could miss the campsite.  Famous last words?  After paddling 17km along the heavily treed shoreline we came to the conclusion that for a Forestry Major and Park Ranger, the trees may look distinctive, but for us city folk, it ain't quite as clear.

Lodgepole 

We were in shock and awe for the entire paddle!  We only saw one other canoe and 2 power boats on the entire lake.  The campsites were deserted and we found ourselves alone in paradise!  The lake is spectacular...clear water, majestic forests and views of snow-capped mountains and glaciers.  The National Park Service website claims that the area features over 300 glaciers and countless snowfields, and is  is one of the snowiest places on earth and the most heavily glaciated area in the United States outside of Alaska.  

The Glacier beckons

Come July, this lake is known to be a fisherman's paradise.  We saw fish by the thousands, or maybe millions, swimming along under our boats as we paddled.  Not quite the size fisherman are seeking, but we enjoyed watching them dart in and out of the rocks.

Underwater shot - fish by the millions

The final push to the campsite became quite challenging, as true to form the afternoon winds picked up and we found ourselves in a bit of battle against Mother Nature.  We eventually found the Lodgepole site and enjoyed a stunning sunset and star filled evening.

Rob stores the food in the bear cache

Lake front view lot

Morning visitor

We woke with the sun and were greeted by the deer, who were out for an early morning nibble.  Conditions looked perfect, so we crawled out of the tent, enjoyed a lake front breakfast and jumped in our kayaks.  Once again we were treated to calm waters...like glass!  We decided to cross to the western edge of the lake and begin our paddle back.  We were not disappointed as we were treated to a series of waterfalls, each one more majestic than the last.

Just one of many waterfalls

It was a sensory experience as we neared the falls.  We were greeted by the sound of the cascading water.  As we drew closer, the temperature dropped and we were soaked by the mist coming off the falls.  It was a welcome relief to the heat of the day and a sight that took our breath away.

Time for a swim!

We ended our trip with a swim in the lake and a promise to return....after all there are still 18 campsites waiting for us.

Giggle of the day:

We rounded the point and began to approach the Lighting Creek campsite when we noticed a full moon rising...and yes - it was broad daylight.  Another camper, also enjoying the solitude of the lake, took the opportunity to skinny dip.  We happened upon him in all his glory.  What could he do but smile and give us a wave.  We waved back!  As we stated earlier, the views in this Recreation Area are second to none.

Map and route tips:

Ross Lake is a reservoir with unpredictable water levels.  Winds can be strong, so it is best to get an early start when the winds are usually calmer.

Park Map

The eastern shoreline is better suited for inexperienced paddlers, as there are numerous take out points should the winds pick up and you find yourself in need of a rest.

Don't have a boat...but would still like to experience camping in the back country at Ross Lake?  The Ross Lake resort offers a water taxi drop off and pick up from any of the trail heads on the lake.

Getting There from Hope . .



#pnw #kayak #canoe #northcascades #rosslake #discoveroutdoors #unplugandplay #neckykayak

Cross Border Shopping

On the weekends, the border beckons many a Canadian shopper looking for great deals down "south."  I must confess, we take a sick pleasure in doing our cross border shopping by bicycle, although the size of our panniers does severely limit the shopping experience.  None the less, it is a cheap thrill to cycle past those long weekend lineups of weary shoppers idling in their cars.

This trip we decided to venture across the line in search of Tillamook cheese.  Yes - we are the cliche.  Canadians who cross the line for cheese.  I have stopped being embarrassed by the "cheese head" label, and have instead proudly embraced the name.  Years ago, on a family camping trip to Oregon we stumbled upon the Tillamook Cheese Factory and have been faithful connoisseurs ever since.  The Cheese Factory is an award -winning farmer-owned dairy co-op based in Tillamook, Oregon and the cheese is fantastic....not to mention the ice cream!

Improved bike lane on 20th Ave. in Surrey, BC

Our route took us along Zero Avenue on the Canadian side of the border.  Although, quite hilly, the route is peaceful and scenic.  As you cycle along the border, you pass large estate homes and farmland.

Border marker on zero avenue

Welcome to Washington - Official Signage

We followed Zero Avenue to the border crossing at Highway 13 near Aldergrove.  The Custom's Officer was friendly and teased us as we produced our Nexus cards.  He seemed to enjoy the irony of cyclists using Nexus cards to speed up the entry process to the United States.

Welcome to Washington - Unofficial Signage

For those who may miss the Welcome to Washington State sign, the sight of the Marijuana Tour Limo provides a clue that you have entered Washington State, where pot has been legalized.

Dairy farms line the road

The return trip on the US side of the border is a little less hilly.  Once again, farms line the road and you begin to feel miles and miles away from the big city.  Today we enjoyed a quiet ride.  Only the odd cow seemed remotely interested in our presence.

Prior to heading home, we stopped in Blaine to take in the view of the harbour and of course, pick up our cheese!  We proudly purchased 7.5 pounds - yes pounds - of Tillamook Cheese.  I tried to put it all in Rob's panniers when he wasn't looking, but unfortunately, he seemed to read my mind and we ended up sharing the load.

Viewpoint of Harbour - Blaine, WA

Border traffic was very heavy by the time we were ready to return to Canada.  Amid the good natured catcalls and folks taking our pictures we made our way to the front of the line.  Quite a testimonial to the benefits of active transportation!

LOVE the lineups - when on a bike

As we approached the Douglas Border crossing we hopped off our bikes in order to enjoy Peace Arch Provincial Park.  This 9 hectare park straddles the border and is a beautiful, well maintained park space.  The Peace Arch Monument serves as a landmark and symbol commemorating the lasting peace between Canada and the United States.  The arch is engraved with "Children of a Common Mother" on one side and "Brethren Dwelling Together in Unity" on the other side - powerful messages.

In the summer months, the park is full of tourists and the Arch is a popular gathering place for folk from all around the world.

Peace Arch Monument in the background

What traffic?

Welcome to BC - Visitor Centre

Giggle of the day:

The ride along 0 Avenue features a series of hill climbs.  You will often see road cyclists using the loop for training as this route is generally free of traffic and the rolling hills are perfect for providing that little extra challenge. Now, I must confess I am not the fastest rider even on flat terrain, with the wind at my back, but I do try my best.  Today was no different.  I took a look at the hill, dug-in and worked hard on keeping a steady cadence as I began to climb.  I was feeling quite proud of my efforts until I came up to a radar trap.  The policemen were happy to inform me that I was doing a nice, comfortable leisurely 17 mph.  They snickered a little at the word "leisurely."  I waved and tried to smile as I grunted and groaned my way past them.  And, yes, Rob was quite a distance ahead....his mashing technique does seem to be effective on those hills!  I did not ask what he was clocked at!  Sometimes, it is just better not to know.

Map and Route Tips:

On the return to Canada there is a special entrance for bikes, and if you have a Nexus card, you will fly through the lineup.

The shoulders on this route are very narrow or non-existent, so cyclists should be comfortable riding in traffic.  Not a good route for families.

Bike Overnighter - Whidbey Island

Fall Weekend Cycling Getaway - Fairhaven to Seattle via Whidbey Island

It sounds cliche to say that the route from Fairhaven to Seattle has something for everyone, BUT it really does!  Rolling farmland, including pumpkin patches and apple farms, rugged coast, hills, headwinds, ferries, trains, planes on trains, trails, concrete jungles, shipyards, canals, panoramic ocean views, bridges, a bustling urban centre and numerous historic points of interest including the stunning Chuckanut Drive and the historic forts on Whidbey Island. We were only gone for a couple of days, but this ride makes you feel like you have lived a month!

In search of the Great Pumpkin

Our trip began in the quaint and historic town of Fairhaven, a great place for Sunday brunches and leisurely weekend strolls!  Our plan was to leave our car in the Amtrak long term parking lot, cycle to Seattle and catch the train back from Seattle at the end of our trip.  We were quite tickled with the long term pay parking system at the parking lot, not exactly high tech, but very effective.  Simply stuff your cash in the slot!

High Tech Pay Parking system - Fairhaven

We set off heading south and immediately noticed a trail marker for the Interurban Greenway.  Always excited to be on trails, we jumped on and discovered a great trail almost all the way to Larabee State Park.

Interurban Greenway trail marker

Fall colours along the Interurban Greenway

Leaving the trail we connected back up to the road and joined the famous Chuckanut Drive.  This road hugs Chuckanut mountain as you wind your way along the coast.  It can be a bit nerve racking for cyclists as the shoulders are narrow and being a scenic byway traffic can be heavy.  Having said that, it is a route frequented by cyclists and we enjoyed the lush forest and ocean vistas as we travelled along the drive.

Ocean view from road side pull out on Chuckanut Drive.

Leaving Chuckanut Drive the route flattens out as you travel through farm land and eventually along Padilla Bay.  Being late October and a forecast for heavy rain, we had decided to leave our tent at home and look for motels and Band B's along the way.  For our first night, we thought it would be fun to visit the Swinomish Casino.  Well, of course, best laid plans - it turns out the casino was full.  With heavy hearts and even heavier legs we kept on pedalling in search of a place to stay for the night.  We had a late start and were beginning to get worried about losing daylight.

Apple Orchard - view of Padilla Bay in the background

Not too far up the road we stumbled upon the Fidalgo Country Inn and were instantly transported back in time.  The parking lot came complete with lobbyists dressed in camouflage gear, armed with US flags advocating for Bill 594, which to our knowledge addresses background checks for firearms.  Despite our complete ignorance of the issue, the gang was friendly and welcomed us to the Inn!  They recommended we eat at the local diner.  We took their advice and we enjoyed fantastic clam chowder soup and the sounds of 60's music.....we fully expected to be caught up in a 60's style protest march after dinner, but I suggest our imaginations got the best of us.

Day 2 took us across the famous Deception Pass bridge to Whidbey Island, "the shortest distance to far away".  The Deception Pass bridge is listed on the National Register of Historic places and is recognized for it's engineering, architecture and as the gateway to Whidbey Island.  The bridge is located within Deception Pass State Park, 4,134 acres of amazing!

Deception Pass Bridge

Views: Deception Pass Bridge, Fidalgo Island Washington State by Jane Weiss (Jane and Rob)

The Island features many cycling routes and we enjoyed the numerous options to sidetrack off the highway and take the back roads through rolling farmland.  Being October traffic was light, but unfortunately the fall prevailing winds are from the south...and they were mean!  We battled all day and welcomed the break from the Kettles trail and Rhodo Trail near Coupeville.  The trails provided relief from both the wind and the road. We arrived in Freeland and began our search for a place a stay.

Picture Perfect barn

Bike route follows the shoreline

Wind breaks at Picnic area - Oak Harbour

Kettles Trail near Coupeville

As we began to cycle in to town we were greeted by three dogs....and within seconds the chase was on!  We haven't been chased by dogs in a very long time and it brought back memories of our Mississippi River Cycle Tour.  Just as we were beginning to panic, out came Sophie, the dog's owner.  Sophie was the best!  She had those dogs under control and back in their yard in seconds.  She apologized over and over and then gave us the most enthusiastic set of directions I think we have ever heard! Sophie recommended the local motel and we took her advice.  As we settled in to our room, the skies opened up and it began to pour.  We looked at each other in disbelief.  What are the odds of cycling for 2 full days in October and not have rain?

Deer crossing

Clinton ferry terminal

Creative use of bike wheels to make whirly gigs

We were up early on our last day, as we had quite a few miles to get under the belt in order to arrive in Seattle in time for our train.  Our route took us along Highway 525 to Clinton where we travelled by ferry to Mukilteo, a quaint waterfront community on Puget Sound.  We learned that Mukilteo means "a good camping ground" and I think we would agree.  The town has fantastic views of both the Olympic and North Cascade mountains.

Mukilteo

From Mukilteo we began a long uphill climb in search of the Interurban Trail, a multi-use path connecting Everett with Seattle along the old Puget Sound Electric Railway corridor.  Although, you probably would not call stretches of the trail  "pretty" we found ourselves very impressed to have a dedicated multi-use pathway in the heart of such a heavily populated and busy area.  Stretches of the trail paralleled Interstate 5, so it was very noisy at times, but the luxury of not being in traffic or negotiating intersections was such a treat.

Interurban Trail marker

Great signage

Miles of designated multi-use path

The trail was well signed and although we took a couple of wrong turns, I must confess the mistakes were ours.  At one point we were actually standing directly underneath a trail marker and missed the turn because we didn't look up.  Not our proudest moment!

We ended our trip with a classic brain fart!  After nearing downtown and travelling along Phinney Street - a really funky street with a definite Vancouver feel to it, we found ourselves crossing a bridge and looking for directions to downtown.  We were planning to either connect with the Burke-Gilman Trail or the Elliott Bay Trail for the last leg of our trip.

Canal crossing near Lake Union

We noticed a large hill, but to our right in the opposite direction of the hill was a bike path.  Being tired and grumpy we jumped at the chance to hop on the Ship Canal Trail in a feeble attempt to avoid the hill.  In our efforts to avoid this last hill, we completely lost all sense of direction and ended up cycling miles out of our way along the wrong trail.  Once again we amazed ourselves how fatigue, hunger and a sight of a hill can completely cloud judgement.  Having said that, the Ship Canal Trail was a lot of fun as it weaved through the shipyards and railway yards giving us a view of Seattle we had never seen before.

We stopped to see how work on our private yacht was coming along

Tourists enjoy a boat tour

Planes on Trains - you really don't see that every day!

Once we realized our mistake, we back tracked and made our way to downtown Seattle.....even managing to find time for a quick celebration drink before boarding the train.

Space Needle welcomes us to downtown

Celebration drink and rest at the pier

View from above - King Street Amtrak station

Miraculously the rain had held off for the full three days of our trip.  As we toasted our good fortune....we began to plan our next outing!  Rumour has it the salmon are running on the Harrison River!





Giggle:

Rob deserves all the credit in the world for capturing amazing photos on our trips.  He is always looking for an interesting shot or story to tell.  Usually, I am fully supportive and enjoy our frequent breaks while he satisfies his "inner photographer."  However, in all honesty, on more difficult days, those full of headwinds and hills I must confess that sometimes my patience runs a little short with his frequent picture stops.  At my age, when you get the train moving, sometimes it is just better to keep it going down the track!

On day 2 of our ride we had struggled against really strong headwinds for the entire morning and as we approached Oak Harbor we were fighting just to stay on the bikes.  We kept pushing forward at a painstakingly slow pace, grateful that it wasn't raining when Rob spotted a really cute roadside market, complete with giant pumpkin.  Of course, he couldn't pass this opportunity by and before I knew it he was trying to setup his bike in front of the pumpkin.  We were also lost, so Rob pulled out the maps....and with one sudden huge gust of wind....the bikes blew over and our maps went flying!!!!  We took one look at each other and burst out laughing...what else could we do?

The wind steals our maps and topples the bikes

Map and Route Tips:



Day 2



Day 3


Amtrak

Clinton Ferry

Downloadable Cycling Mpas - Whidbey Island

Hiking Heliotrope Ridge - a view from the top

At 10,781 feet, Mount Baker looms majestically over the Pacific Northwest.  On clear days, the sun beats off the Coleman Glacier and beckons hikers and climbers to visit.  About one third of all the glaciers in the lower 48 states are located in the North Cascades National Park.  Today we chose to hike the Heliotrope Ridge trail up through the old growth forest to the Coleman Glacier.  This is one of our favourite day hikes and something that families can easily enjoy together.  

For a glimpse of the hike, check out this 360 degree panorama photosphere shot from Heliotrope Ridge.  It's the next best thing to being there!

Views: Whatcom County, WA by Jane Weiss (Jane and Rob)

Children will delight in the numerous stream crossings, bridges, boardwalks, switchbacks, waterfalls, and incredible views of the glacier including glimpses of ice-climbers in action.

Mt. Baker looms above

One of the many waterfalls along the trail

Our day began with a giggle!  The fridge was empty so we decided to make a quick stop at the Subway in Glacier on our way to the mountain.  We painstakingly and deliberately worked with the sandwich artist to create a sub fit for royalty.  We knew we had a long hike ahead and wanted lunch to be worthy of the effort....really, it is always about the food!  Delighted with our choices we went to the cashier to pay.  Of course, we were not carrying US cash, so we needed to charge our purchase.  Unfortunately, the point of sale system wasn't working.  It was a glorious day and we were anxious to get to the mountain, so before I knew what was happening Rob was behind the counter, rebooting their router and troubleshooting their wireless network.  Another remote service call and another happy customer!

Backpacks full of delectable delights we headed for our next stop, the Ranger Station in Glacier to purchase our Parks pass. Nestled in the forest, the Ranger Station is absolutely beautiful - quaint and charming.  As you walk around the grounds you fully expect to run into Yogi and Boo Boo Bear. The staff are extremely knowledgeable and welcome any and all questions about the trails, forest and parks.  They will provide you with up to date information on trail conditions and/or closures.

After leaving the main highway, the trail head to Heliotrope Ridge is about 8 miles up a forest service road.  The road is windy and narrow so you must drive with caution.  We laughed to ourselves as we delighted in the climb.  With every mile we travelled to the trail head in the car, we knew we were saving a mile of climbing on our feet.  I contemplated that maybe this delight in car travel is a sign of age?

Route map at Heliotrope Ridge Trail Head

The trail follows numerous switchbacks through the old growth forest as you begin your climb.  Today the light in the forest was almost magical and we spent a lot of time photographing the forest floor and trees.

The trail is very popular and can be quite busy, so we welcomed the opportunity to chat with other hikers as we passed.  It is quite a cross-section of people who frequent the trail:  families, young and old, scientists studying the glacier, ice-climbers, snowboarders, skiers, and numerous four legged adventurers.  We enjoyed meeting them all and learning more about what draws them to the mountain.

Avid skier heads up the trail

Even the four legged visitors pack it in and pack it out!

By the time you are getting a little tired of the switchbacks the trees begin to thin and Mount Baker teases you with your first glimpse of the glacier. It literally stops you in your tracks and takes your breath away.  Rejuvenated by the glacier sighting we pushed on into the sub-alpine.  This area is at its ultimate best when the spring wild-flowers are blooming.  We had missed the wild flowers, but none the less the view from the top was fantastic.

As the trees begin to thin you are treated to your first glimpse of the glacier

We navigated our final stream crossing and made our way to the ridge.  Numerous ice-climbers were practicing their skills.  It was inspiring to watch them work hard for every inch of vertical gain.  We stopped for lunch and sat in complete silence as we took in the sights and sounds of the mountain.  We were incredibly lucky to have such a perfect day - it was warm and clear, we could see for miles!

Rob attempts to stay dry during one of the many creek crossings

Look closely - how many ice climbers do you see?

After lunch, we decided to climb a little higher...the clear, blue glacier ice was mesmerizing and we couldn't bring ourselves to leave without getting just a little bit closer.  The climb quickly became much steeper and a little trickier was we tried to navigate across the loose rock.  At one point I was on all fours, clinging to the rock when I glanced up to see a mountain man bouncing across the rocks.  I quickly tried to collect my dignity and stand up to greet him.  His name was James and he looked like a Greek God!  He was shirtless, tanned, athletic with long flowing mountain man hair.  Rob, teased me, that if we really wanted to encourage more young ladies to hike, maybe James should be our model and spokesman!

The glacier blue ice is stunning under the clear blue sky

We took a break and visited for quite a while.  James was an avid hiker and shared stories of his hike the previous weekend to Ptarmigan Ridge .  Today he was in search of his buddy RJ.  They had become separated at the last creek crossing.  We asked if he needed help, but he didn't seem to worried.  In his words, "Heh, worst case we can meet back at the car."  Of course, being a neurotic mother, I had visions of RJ laying hurt in a crevasse, but James did not seem to share my worries.

Jane auditions for the Sound of Music - the hills are alive.....

Vegetation is sparse as you gain elevation

We spent considerable time photographing the glacier, and then reluctantly decided to turn around and head back to the trail head before we lost daylight.  On our way down we came across two ice-climbers.  One of them had twisted his knee during his climb and was really struggling with the downhill hike.  We offered to help, by taking some of the weight from his very heavy backpack, but I think pride may have stopped him from accepting help.  I imagine the weekend warrior story of conquering the climb isn't quite as impressive when you have to end the story with details about 2 middle aged, slightly overweight Canadians helping you down the mountain!



Giggle of the day:

The washroom facilities on the trail are definitely 5 star....check out this View from the Loo!

A Loo with a View

Map and Route Tips:

Remember to stop by the Ranger Station and purchase your recreation pass.

Check trail and road conditions - the road to the trail head has been subject to wash-outs.

There are several stream crossings.  Water levels vary greatly depending on time of year and time of day.  Take hiking poles!  You will get wet!

Sometimes you just have to go for it and get wet!

Trail head - go east on Mt. Baker Highway 542 for about one mile to Glacier Creek Road. (Forest Service Road 39).  Turn right on Glacier Creek Road and continue for 8 miles to the trail head parking lot.  Outhouse is at the trail head.



Trail map marked in green.



#hike #nature #glacier #pacificnw #discoveroutdoors #photosphere #mtbaker