Paddle Ross Lake - the North Cascades are Calling!

June in the Pacific Northwest can often be dull and rainy or at best a mixed bag of tricks, so when we saw the weather forecast for a weekend heat wave we knew we had to jump at the chance to paddle.  We decided to look for a new lake to explore and with the help of Google we came across Ross Lake in the North Cascades.

Jagged peaks of the North Cascades

There are 19 boat access back country campgrounds along Ross Lake.  Can you imagine? We felt like kids in a candy store.  Although they are called back country sites, they are well maintained and fully equipped with pit toilets, fire rings, picnic tables and bear caches.  The outhouses were even stocked with toilet paper.  Talk about luxury travel!  And just when you think it can't get any better...the campsites are FREE.  Visitors are simply asked to register and pick up a back country permit before heading into the park.

The only road access to Ross Lake is via Canada.  Leaving Hope you follow the Silver-Skagit road, a gravel access road, and wind your way along the Skagit River towards the Hozomeen Ranger Station.  The road is an old gravel, logging road but in good condition.  After a few km you arrive without any pomp or circumstance at the border to the US of A. 

Where do you scan your Nexus card?

A small A frame cabin serves as the Ranger Station and visitors are required to check in and pick up back country camping permits before entering the recreation area.  We had the pleasure of meeting Park Ranger Jeff.  What a great guy!  Clearly he loved his job and was thrilled to share his considerable knowledge of the park with us.  You can't beat local knowledge, so of course we asked for his recommendation on a campsite.  Although the campsites are all wonderful, he suggested the Lodgepole site...and we were not disappointed. 

Hozomeen Ranger Station - Jeff's Office

We did laugh, as when describing the Lodgepole campsite he said there were a stand of Lodgepole pine trees that looked much different than the rest of the trees.  He told us there was absolutely no way we could miss the campsite.  Famous last words?  After paddling 17km along the heavily treed shoreline we came to the conclusion that for a Forestry Major and Park Ranger, the trees may look distinctive, but for us city folk, it ain't quite as clear.

Lodgepole 

We were in shock and awe for the entire paddle!  We only saw one other canoe and 2 power boats on the entire lake.  The campsites were deserted and we found ourselves alone in paradise!  The lake is spectacular...clear water, majestic forests and views of snow-capped mountains and glaciers.  The National Park Service website claims that the area features over 300 glaciers and countless snowfields, and is  is one of the snowiest places on earth and the most heavily glaciated area in the United States outside of Alaska.  

The Glacier beckons

Come July, this lake is known to be a fisherman's paradise.  We saw fish by the thousands, or maybe millions, swimming along under our boats as we paddled.  Not quite the size fisherman are seeking, but we enjoyed watching them dart in and out of the rocks.

Underwater shot - fish by the millions

The final push to the campsite became quite challenging, as true to form the afternoon winds picked up and we found ourselves in a bit of battle against Mother Nature.  We eventually found the Lodgepole site and enjoyed a stunning sunset and star filled evening.

Rob stores the food in the bear cache

Lake front view lot

Morning visitor

We woke with the sun and were greeted by the deer, who were out for an early morning nibble.  Conditions looked perfect, so we crawled out of the tent, enjoyed a lake front breakfast and jumped in our kayaks.  Once again we were treated to calm waters...like glass!  We decided to cross to the western edge of the lake and begin our paddle back.  We were not disappointed as we were treated to a series of waterfalls, each one more majestic than the last.

Just one of many waterfalls

It was a sensory experience as we neared the falls.  We were greeted by the sound of the cascading water.  As we drew closer, the temperature dropped and we were soaked by the mist coming off the falls.  It was a welcome relief to the heat of the day and a sight that took our breath away.

Time for a swim!

We ended our trip with a swim in the lake and a promise to return....after all there are still 18 campsites waiting for us.

Giggle of the day:

We rounded the point and began to approach the Lighting Creek campsite when we noticed a full moon rising...and yes - it was broad daylight.  Another camper, also enjoying the solitude of the lake, took the opportunity to skinny dip.  We happened upon him in all his glory.  What could he do but smile and give us a wave.  We waved back!  As we stated earlier, the views in this Recreation Area are second to none.

Map and route tips:

Ross Lake is a reservoir with unpredictable water levels.  Winds can be strong, so it is best to get an early start when the winds are usually calmer.

Park Map

The eastern shoreline is better suited for inexperienced paddlers, as there are numerous take out points should the winds pick up and you find yourself in need of a rest.

Don't have a boat...but would still like to experience camping in the back country at Ross Lake?  The Ross Lake resort offers a water taxi drop off and pick up from any of the trail heads on the lake.

Getting There from Hope . .



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